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Yes I did, but didn't want to cut holes for the heater hoses. Also for some reason, to me, it just didn't look right under the glove box:roll:. I figure if I have to do any serious motor work; a few bolts, a hose clamp, and a wire are not too much to take loose to get the heater out of the way.

Started fabbing up a heater mount for under the hood. My deuce came with a heater, but whoever mounted it, mounted it TO the side panel. As you can imagine, this made it impossible to even open the side panel, much less work on anything on that side of the engine. Since I've got my heater valved...

Ought to have good acceleration with that, though.:)

What are the dimensions of the bars? I have one, but I don't have the bars to go with it.

I tried the different office approach, and it didn't work out so well. Maybe that was because I waited too long in between tries. The first time I tried to get tags was about this time last year, and I went to the office here in El Dorado. Told her I wanted antique tags, she asked what it was...

All I can say is, she showed me in the book where it said anything over a 1 ton was ineligible for antique tags.:?

I just got commercial tags for mine because the computer and Little Rock said the deuce is too big for antique and regular tags.

The weatherproofing was pretty simple. I unbolted the weatherstripping above the door glass from the cab top and installed two pieces of sheet metal that I broke up. Then I reinstalled the weatherstripping and caulked on top of and around the top joint on the cap top with butyl flex sealant. I...

Got to work on the deuce yesterday and today again. I performed the cranetruck flasher relay mod and repaired a few other wires behind the gauge cluster. Ordered some relays from Skycraft Surplus, and some wire and connectors from Erik's. A big thanks to Tom(combst32) for the new(to me) flasher...

Not even close!

I'm 6'5" and have no problem with leg room. My only problem is I have to duck down to see out the windshield.:D I do have a newer Impala seat in mine, though.

That's a negatory, Sam. I don't get out as much as I used to. Too much going on around the house these days.

Can't wait to see it when you get done. Sounds like its going to be awesome!:driver:

That is a nice looking truck. I would probably keep the diamond plate and chrome, but I would have to get the exhaust out from under the truck. A 6 inch chrome stack would look sweet on that rig.

Got to do a little more weatherproofing the other day. This was not my idea. I stole it from someone on here, but I can't remember who.:oops: We had a good rain a couple of days after I did this, and it helped tremendously.

Thank you for the information and advice, Stalwart. I was trying to be a cheapskate and figure out a way to get 12V without a converter or equalizer. I don't mind spending money, I just like to make sure there's not a "free" option out there somewhere. There's nothing wrong with "you can't get...

Well darn! Here I thought I had a good idea. Here's another one for you: If I took out the bus bar it would work then right? I would have no way of the keeping the load balanced, though, therefore ruining what I was trying to accomplish. "You can't get there from here" in other words.:-(

My proofreading skills have failed me this morning.:roll: I have now gone back and corrected my original drawing. Can you elaborate on why this would still create an imbalance, Stalwart? I'm not trying to be a smart aleck, just trying to learn.

I tried to go back and make it bigger, but it's still kinda small. What I drew was 1 battery coming off of each battery of the 24V system with those 2 batteries being paralleled to a bus bar. My thought was this would have your 12V load drawing equally from both of the batteries in the 24V system.

Would this be a feasible option?