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Neato! I guess that is why our frames are riveted and not welded. I doubt the Air Force trucks would flex that well though because the beds are welded to the frame in multiple places.
Take your in tank pump out, drain the tank and clean out all the rust particles and other junk. I haven't had a plugged filter since I've done this. You'll be surprised how much crap is in there. Mine came out in handfuls of mostly rust chunks.
Master chief , see if you can find a 5 ton with a hard top that is being scrapped and get the back window out of it. It is wider but can be modified to work.
John, check out some Rv/ camper windows. You should be able to find one that fits. That's all the original deuce rear window is, but from an oldscool camper. You may have to find camper trailer graveyard. If you do go with the plexi I think you can find some small aluminum channel almost like...
Oh, gotcha. Was worried there for a minute. Just make sure they follow the proper rebuild procedures from the tm. Also note that one of the seals is shown in the improper orientation in the rebuild manual. Someone will probably post up a link here to show you the proper way.
Well, let us know what it turns out to be. I'm kind of curious myself as I wouldn't have thought having a 12 volt light in the circuit would damage anything but the light itself. I figured it would just pop the bulb. Next time run two 12 volt side markers in series instead of just one.
There are no fuses or fusible links, so that pretty well leaves you with a component failure, which will have to be either the flasher, 3 lever switch, or signal control switch. All three are cheap and easy fixes. If it were me, I would start with the flasher. Every deuce owner should have spare...
I recently picked up a 650 gallon fuel pod and have spent the last two days inside of it cleaning it out with aluminum brite acid wash and a scrub brush. In the process of shimmying myself through the baffle to the front half of the tank I fell into the shutoff valve linkage and broke the cast...
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