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I've met a top post adapter I liked. I bought Hum-Vee battery clamps and used those on top post batteries. They are good to go. If you are going to keep using the top post adapters, maybe try some loc-tite on the tread portions.

If you get really desperate, oven cleaner and a hot water pressure cleaner. I'd have to be really desperate and I would remove all the plastic and remove the glass. I'd also pull the dash board. and try to keep the cleaner away from that area.

Do a search, I posted my job doing this a year or so back, working fine. Main issues are making sure the gauges are firmly in place in their retainers and being gentle with the foil contacts the plug into the gauge cluster plugs up against.

I took the inside duct work and core out. The fiberglass was in a roll and I cut a rectangle to fit in and fill the space where the core is and then cut out the center where the fins of the core were. I also packed fiberglass around the sides of the core. I blocked the flapper "door" that is...

2 stroke is a very aggressive deposit cleaner. It may even loosen up so much stuff your filter will plug. I bought a case of filters and a case of ECU units (the pollution control valve mounted to the passenger valve cover) Both are worthwhile investments as you will need both to keep it...

I took my heater ducts and core out today and insulated around the core with fiberglass I had for packing mufflers. I also closed off the cold air duct. I now have way mucho heat, even with the wrong type thermostat and an aluminum heater core.

It's fixed. Turned to a stupid simple thing. A wingnut from the air cleaner had fallen onto the injection pump and was shorting across two terminals. Wierd thing is it now runs better than I remember it ever running.

How do I tell what load to use to replace a fuseable link? I went with the fuse box / breakers so I can adjust it to work.

Well, found a burnt out fuse link from under the junction on the firewall. Replaced it and the others there that were not the two really heavy red wires with breakers and a fuse box. I also removed the link to the junction box and plumbed in a pair of 50amp breakers in parallel. Everything...

Had to run to town and get brake parts for my wife's vehicle, then blow out the drive and shop lot, then put hers together. Tomorrow upward and onward to the cucv. Bought two 40 amp breakers to wire is parallel for a fuse-able link, will try that first. Fingers crossed.

My wife was driving my m1009 home and it died. Completely died. No electric, no engine, no nothing, right while she driving. She had both alternators charging. Now there is no lights, no cranking, no glow plugs etc. The radio still works. Only thing I can think of is the ignition switch...

I found that screw, turned it out and set my vacuum. Wow, what a change. I don't even feel it shift and can only just barely tell it when it does. Very smooth. I might need to turn that screw back in for towing as it has lost a lot of torque that it had before, loads and hills will be...

No screw in the old or new one. Just put a new one in when I replaced the vac lines, filter etc.

45-55mph. Sounds like it needs adjusting.

I know mine isn't what the TM (had my wife read it for me) says. Mine is 8 inches at idle, the TM says 10 at wide open throttle, to start at 20 at idle. Truck seems to shift ok, just a tad late into third.

That rough idle sounds like the engine getting up to running temp in the cylinders. The cylinders have to be hot to ignite the diesel correctly. My tractor does the same thing, runs crappy, then suddenly smooths out when it's ready. My cucv has a bad glow plug relay right now, and is doing the...

Now it won't start. Cranks like crazy, but no fire. A little gray smoke out the back. I swapped fuel filters, plugged it in, but even after bleeding the new filter, nothing. Is it possible water froze in the injector lines? It has been down around 10 here last night. I do run Diesel 911...

Better do a search and read some old post's guys. Good info about the good, bad, and ugly of various floor panels.

Time for new cables. Make sure both batteries are connected to each other real well. I like the Hum Vee terminals sold on ebaay, Then cables can be bought or made with just lug ends on them. If you ever lack for a volt meter again, use a 12v bulb to test with. The brightness of the bulb...

My trans isn't up shifting right. Having read some here, I put a shift modulator and new vacuum line in. It's actually worse now. Now it didn't shift up at all. At least I have a new modulator, vacuum line, filter, fluid and a drain plug soldered into the pan now. What do I need to check...