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That is still some nice equipment.

It wouldn't be that difficult to build your own fording kit. Other members have done it, and I am going to when I have time.

You just said it, you are moving twice the weight with the same transmission and thinner fluid. You would be wise to go back to a heavier duty fluid. At least switch back to a good AW 36 or AW42 hydraulic fluid.

10.26.... Wow!

Several other members and myself are in the middle of a carbon/dissolved metal extraction experiment as we speak. We are trying to figure out how to remove not just suspended particles, but dissolved solids as well by chemical process. The thread is in the alternative fuels section.

Ok, I see what you are getting at. And as far as lubricity goes, my thought was to let the solvent do it's job and then cook it off leaving only a diesel/oil blend because the other solvents all evaporate much faster than diesel or kerosene.

Give it a shot! Somebody has to figure this out, and the more people that get to experimenting, the more likely we are to have success. I just want to get all the dissolved solids out, that's my goal. I don't think the additives and detergents and such are going to pose much of an issue for us.

You want all three axles if anything. A bobbed deuce is going to be less capable, if not closely comparable with a regular diesel pickup.

Checked on the experiments today, zero stratification. I'm not surprised really, but all three seem to be good solvents. They are all equally fluid and all three have close to the same amount of sediments in the bottom. Surprisingly, the mineral spirits seems to have settled out slightly more...

Thank you for posting links to your videos. They were very informative. And it certainly saved me some wasted time and money, now i know that there are no alcohol based solvents that will help me.

Alright, so I started a test group today. My control is WMO cut with approximately 25% off-road diesel. I used three quart mason jars for the test group with 1/2 quart of the control in each. Jar#1: to the control I added 1/4 quart of xylene and sealed the lid tightly, then swirled for ten...

Sorry about that man, I didn't realize it looked that way.

Wow! That's a killer deal!

I have some UMO that has been sitting for a couple weeks that I cut with kerosene ( about a cup worth total). I'm going to add some xylene late today and let it sit at room temp overnight and see what I come up with. I'm hoping for some heavy stratification with good looking oil on top mostly...

Anyway, I'm pretty sure this can be done with the process that BB shared that Wiki link to earlier. This has to be what chemists do when they do oil analysis, we just have to figure out what chemical additives and process they use and then do it on a larger scale. And hopefully it won't be cost...

Right! And I've seen lots of YouTube videos of guys with small cracking towers set up and running in their garage! That's just asking for an insurance claim. Stupid.... At least put it out in the driveway while its running.

I'm not really worried about the lubricating properties, just trying to see if we can make UMO less damaging over time to our injection systems. If you could take the black stuff (carbon) out before burning it why wouldn't you? Should end up with longer pump life and less coking.

I have an extra whiffle tree with pins, I will not separate, $300 or offer me a trade. Also have an extra set of wrecker ground spades, one has a dent in it, $180 or offer me a trade. Also have some M880 towing adapters, make an offer. Several sets of towbar feet in 3/4" and 1" sizes, both new...

Sounds like I need to befriend a chemist.

Sounds like you still have air in the lines somewhere. You need to pull the drums anyway and check the wheel cylinders, so you may as well adjust the shoes up.