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I would be tempted to drop an injector in, unless you just have a diesel compression gauge with the correct adapter handy. Hopefully it is an easy one to get to.

The one towards the front of the vehicle

I post to Youtube and attach a link, others may have better ideas.

you can also remove the run solenoid wire and if you have a cylinder that has no compression you will hear it "skip" or speed up when it comes to compress that cylinder, will not help to figure out which one though.

I am not sure what you were seeing, I would bust the lines loose one at a time and see if I had a dead cylinder, then I would do as RWH said and pull the glow plug on that cylinder and do a compression test. Usually a bad injector will cause a knock, not always but most of the time. If you do...

I would think yes you would want to remove the 14V tap on the regulator, otherwise they could bump heads while trying to equalize. Also the 14V tap is only good for 20A or so, if your 12V loads would be under 20A then you would not need an equalizer.

If you have a dead cylinder the idle will not change when you loosen the injector line to that cylinder, no real need for a tach. If you have a dead cylinder it will be pretty obvious and busting the injector lines is allot easier than pulling the glow plugs.

Do you have a link to the product? I did a search and found a Sure Power unit, it looks to actually be a 24-12V converter, there was no connection to the 12V tap on the batteries.

That lead goes to the connection between the batteries (12V source) it balances the voltage between the two batteries and compensates for the TCM draw.

I bet getting that street legal would be a hassle, nice truck although the rear steps were obviously a poor afterthought

I would do a cylinder rpm drop test as suggested earlier, If you had a cylinder issue it would narrow it down.

I am curious what HP they are tuned to. Dang things are now making up to 550HP right out of the box!!

No, they are torque to yield and only used once.

It goes to the small terminal on the starter solenoid, this terminal normally has a "jumper" that moves the terminal to the bottom of the starter to make access easier. The other end of the wire attaches to the EESS box pin I There should be two wires attached to that starter terminal 74B goes...

Lowest bidder....

When the thermo switch is open the fan is enabled, it is a failsafe system, anything that disrupts power to the cadillac valve turns the fan on, complete the circuit and the fan "stops" The the thermo switch is normally closed, means it opens when it gets hot.

I would check the TPS calibration, I think you can find it here. I am assuming your have a 4 speed, the year of a HMMWV has not much bearing as they rebuilt 3 speed trucks and changed the man. date on them. While you have the meter attached cycle the throttle and make sure there are no bad spots...

Great! I hope they work out for you, under technical details they say 12V

Make sure the high idle handle/knob under the dash is all the way in.

I would think most folks would work on the broken bolt, it might not be as hard as you think. To be fair there are probably thousands of 60A alternators out there that never had an issue, you are just one of the lucky ones.