Search results

Beautiful job. (y)

As far as I recall, the civilian pump has a rubber "shock absorber" in the drive inside. They are known to disintegrate and clog up the insides. Military spec pump has an all steel drive train. Someone else probably has better advice.

Don't forget to check water distribution tube behind the water pump.

That is well done.

I've heard about that. You can use Copper Cote gasket dressing also.

The appropriate swear words scare the offending parts into submission. Anointing them with knuckle blood helps.

Very nice!

Very cool, great picture.

Might want to insure that personnel understand how to use the 3 lever switch. Check in the dash 10 manual you can download I think.

That is most interesting. In the 1970's, the Texas DMV used the frame number on my M37b. That was on a 1962 truck.

Remember to keep up with valve adjustment intervals. I wish you all the best with the GMC.

A sure fire cure for a wimpy horn.

Fuel tank liners will do the job. You need to be OCD about following the instructions. See my old posts about tank lining. Best of luck.

You did remove the screw in plugs on the ends of the drag link, right?

At least put out glue traps if not poison. Even mouse urine on electrical items is really destructive.

You can use headlights that use a separate bulb. 24v H4 bulbs are very available and much cheaper than seal beams. Check on Amazon and other places.

Our VFD used a 2 inch high pressure pump from Northern Tool that does the job for us. Have one on a tanker for water transfer, another on a brush truck supplying 1 inch hoses.

A cool cushion for summer driving. A must for hot humid climates.

Maybe download the -10 manual from this site. Will answer lots of questions. A good put you to sleep bedtime read.

Maybe look at starters from a M135 or M211. GMC starters may work for your 230.