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Like the charging system, I do not find the factory system complicated or troublesome at all. The system really starts to get screwed up when the volunteer fire guys start trying to re-invent the system. If the factory system is in place, it will be easy to troubleshoot in the future. By the...

386451 was the part number provided by the original poster. I just checked the parts TM and that is the listed part number for all UOCs both first and second design. To explain further, UOC is use on code. It says what model truck it's used on. Here are the UOCs listed; 209, 194, 208, 210...

Sure it's possible. Do you have the equipment to lift the body and fab up all the mounts? If I were doing it for myself, I would move all the checy components to the factory jeep frame.

Likely an M52A2. Is it building air pressure?

Spicer part numbers for 1310 joint is 5-153X and 1350 joint is 5-178X.

It would be better if we started with exactly what you have there. In one post it's an M52 but in another post you indicate that it's a 1975. I realize that the brake systems are the same but any info you provide helps us. Diagnostics. Did it build air pressure? Do you have an air pressure...

I would not play the lottery tonight. The M101A1 (or any 101) side racks only have 3 boards and they are very close. They also have swing open rear gates. Looking at the pic posted shows racks with 4 boards and a 1 pc gate. Another dead giveaway is the height of the rear crossmember. Even...

For future reference, all 3/4 ton 14B full floaters from the 73-87 (91) era will bolt into the M1009 with the exception of bonus and crew cab rears. The bonus and crew cab rears share the perch spacing and and shock mounts with the 1 tons. FWIW, in this body, GM never made a crew or bonus cab...

The 14 bolt from the burb will bolt right in. You won't need to do anything with perches or mounts but you will need new u-bolts and spring plates. The spread between the u-bolts is wider. The cool thing about the 14 bolt is the 2 pc carrier. You can bolt a Detroit NoSpin in there will little...

You can always put the LED composites on there. They work on both voltages. How are you adapting the 12 pin plug to the civy trailers? Many of the mil semi trailers have 2 complete lighting systems, one for 24V mil and 12V civy. You could duplicate this very easily and inexpensively as well.

Bingo! Knowing you were working with a 5 wire vehicle in the first post could have netted you with correct info there. There is a converter needed for 5 wire cars and trucks.

There was a super nice one at the GA Rally this past year. Cool truck. Edit; Ooops, don't think it's a sweptline!

It is an M105. Weighs 2750# empty. If you plan on moving it with your Oh-9, either bring a hi-lift or eat your Wheaties. That tongue is heavy and even if it does have the factory tongue jack, it won't drop down to average hitch height.

You wouldn't believe me if I told you. Coffee grounds is one of the dry rub ingredients.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?101135-M1010-DUVAC-Removal-Plan-quot-B-quot&highlight=plan When you decide to talk about the DUVAC, read this thread. This solution is rock solid dependable. My M1010 was one oh the ones converted by chevyc60. It has never had an issue over the years.

These LEDs draw such little power, its amazing what you can do with them. I have a 5 meter strip of them in a steel topper that was on my M1008. Since getting the SECM body I put the topper on an M101 trailer. I added a 12V 8ah batt and a 5 watt solar panel. The light often burn for hours but...

I used PT plywood. 19/32 I think. It was right near 3/4". Works pretty good.

I COB light onthe back of my contact truck. Work great as backups. There is a thread somewhere with pics. Good work on this.

The keys are commonly available. I think mine are CH504 or something. It is nice to access one door at a time.

Most useful. Congrats.