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M37's run the gamut, price wise. Parts trucks can be had for less than $500, a good runner between $7 to 10K. Some go for much higher, but those are all done, back to year one. The best way to go, in my opinion, is to find one mostly complete and save it from the torch. Build it back right...

Well, it is an inline 4. Once set up correctly, it will be very reliable compared to any gas motor. Plus it will run without any electricity needed. Just sayin'. DG

To a Jimmy Diesel guy Cummins is the K-Mart of engines... DG

If it were mine, I'd dig around for a good 4-53N Detroit, and run the Spicer 3053 5-speed from the M35 trucks. 140 Hp, bunches of torque and happy up to 3K RPM, and the unmistakable snarl of the Roots blower. The simplest design Diesel of all time. Just because I love 'em. DG

It will test just like a 12-Volt system as far as checks go. First, perhaps you got one battery wired in backwards? Makes for zero volts overall. Then: Did you mash the starter pedal? If it turns the engine, your problem is upstream from the tap-off on the starter terminal. The flow is...

That is a Bendix-Weiss constant velocity joint. They work much better than a U-joint. I've seen them "popped" back together with it mounted vertically in a big bench vise, one guy holding the loose shaft inline with the bottom, with the balls as close as possible, the other guy giving it a...

Indeed. DG

HF 12K winches pull hard, at a decent speed, too. 2 problems with the three I have: The control relay just quits, no easy replacement without going to outboard solenoids. Always at a most inopportune time. (Like most of the Chinese winches) Golf cart jobs work pretty well for that. Yeah...

Not much the same between them I've ever seen. If your deuce has a spring in it, use it again. If not, don't worry 'bout it. DG

Is L0 (zero) neutral? If so, that is where you need to hook the white wire. You need another wire (4 total), black or red, to carry the power safely. What you want won't fly with just 3 wires. DG

A "hybrid" tactical... DG

2nd that. I'd still go for a proper radio set, it's one of the best add-ons in any restoration. DG

I'd go find a period-correct radio system and install that. DG

Sorry, can't help you with that. Any modifications I did were minimal, and done a la factory style. The optics are important. DG

Everybody is just plain overthinking this. GAA is a very good grease, formulated a long time ago to cover many applications in military vehicles. GAA looks, feels, and acts like a good long-fiber lite brown grease. One characteristic is a bit of gear oil contamination won't ruin it. LO's...

My retired weapons test engineer buddy was impressed when I told him about your truck. He said "So somebody finally found one of those old Peroxide rigs". "The one we had at March was repurposed as a crane truck to move stuff around after the Redstone was retired". "Can't be too many left". DG

Also buying VOC compounds like paint in an attainment area is more expensive due to air quality fees. DG

What do you want to know? I've some 50 years in rebuilding, modifying, and driving them. Unfortunately, they haven't gotten any cheaper to do. DG

I've seen deuce front spindles develop cracks when subjected to heavy loads continuously. Front mounted A-frames are notorious for this with all the extra weight and shock loads. Always have them Magnafluxed before reusing. DG

I drove my first M37 when I was 18. Been driving them ever since, am 68 now, that makes 50 years of it. The best ride I've ever had, and I've had plenty. DG