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The battery that looses voltage is probably junk, 6 TLs are good for that!. Remove the dogbone, charge them seperatly and load test them individually. Do you have a 12 VDC accessory that you have added that could be pulling the battery down?

DAAAAAMMMMMM! That is a cool repower! It is 600HP? Didn't think there was a 600 for EGR engines! If you ever need parts, I can get them at cost for you.

The Pac Brake isn't a positive seal. There is a hole in the flapper to control the exhaust bach pressure during a braking event and the flapper doesn't seal around the edges. If there is any useable air being sucked into a runaway, the engine will use it and keep going. You are better off...

Are the rods bent or etched? If they aren't there should be no reason to replace them. Same for the jets, they usually don't wear. If they are all covered in varnish, go down to NAPA or the likes and get some air line alcohol and drop the varnished/ugly parts into a container filled with enough...

It is a rubber top layer with a softer rubber backing about 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. It looks like the same material that Navistar uses on their trucks. I don't know how it's mounted, the one I saw had most of it pulled up. I think it would be a good addition, but on the other hand, it would hold...

When I got my truck, there were 4 u-bolts thru the back of the cab and there was evidence that there was something mounted in them and the leg holder by the passenger side mirror showed evidence of something being clamped in it, The back side of the passenger seat also had wear from standing on...

Think of it as our own little onboard cancer fighting radiation treatment! We should live longer than expected now.

A set of Vise-Grips on the rack is good insurance for Detroits and a Co2 extinguisher will snuff out a runaway. Been there, done that. 22 years at work, had 2 do it. Both times, the customer drove the vehicle in. I got in them to move them around to the shop, got one of them up to the shop...

I agree! 46 and I find myself mellowing with age, the fuse isn't as short, but I still have no patience for stupidity or laziness. Sometime it's easier to do things yourself.

Didn't the M75 have 2, I-6 GM engines?

Or hard, cracked oil cooler seal rings. Take it apart, if the o-rings are in one piece and not all hard and flat, it is most likely the cooler. A radiator shop can test it.

Sprag or air shift?? Could it be possible that with the big tires the slpines got sheared in a drive flange?

Cummins has ALWAYS recommended 15W40. Your flavor is up to you.

http://www.jakebrake.com/service/pdf2/015626.pdf Page 20 has a good diagram of the foot activated switch installation.

Take the return line off at the engine and see if this helps. (run it into a bucket, it is a messy test!). Too much return restriction will cause an issue like you are explaining. Someone said the two tanked trucks all do it? The return lines I have seen are all coiled up on top of the tanks...

If both batteries are dead, you need 24VDC to slave start the engine. If one battery is dead a 12 VDC jumper can be used to the dead battery. Yes, you can pull 12 volts off of one battery.

The following week is an annual week long family trip, I won't be able to go due to getting ready for that trip.

Head nut wrench, 250 ft lb 1/2 inch torque wrench, 3/8 torque wrench, liner puller, ring compressor, air compressor wrench. 7/16 to 1 1/4 socket set in 1/2 drive, a deep set of the same, 3/8 socket set, 3/8 wobbly socket set. Maybe more. Why you gonna o-haul it?

From the Cummins factory, the were Cummins Beige, it is a patented color, as are the others, Bluke, Titanium Black, Apex Red, Old Gold. When we used to see the 800 and 900 series and OSHKOSH trucks, they were OD in the OSHKOSH, and a satin/semi gloss in the 800/900 trucks, but, there were the...

If there is no connection from the engine to the frame, just make one.