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Nice. A 100W AM fone rig. Hope you have the 100A alternator system in there as well, that TX is not easy on the 25A generator. 73DG

Depending on your state, never ever let them pull the "year first registered" trick on you. Say you have a '63 M35 that was hidden away at some base and you just got it. If you say 2021, they can hit you for all those years of 'lost' registration fees. AZ DMV tried that with me once, and I...

A GRC-8 radio would be correct for the M37 in the early years. A VRC-12 system would be correct for the 'Nam years They were traditionally mounted on the drivers' side of the bed seats. There is a power receptical location on the bed front for it. Some installations had a control box...

When in doubt, brew up... DG

As long as you stay within the specifications of your converter, you will be OK. Total consumption in Wattage will go up a bit, as the converter 'charges a tax' for it's ability. I mentioned that so you won't run your battery down prematurely.

You might check compression, or have a shop test it for you. A bit off, and they are hard to start. Even a newly rebuilt engine may not have the rings set in yet, and be hard to get going. DG

Mullany, some folks think the Timken/Rockwell axle disassembles like modern units, where you can remove the wheels and pull just the drum and replace without taking everything apart. Not so with the usual 5-ton truck. Sorry for the confusion. DG

Another heads up...Don't use any grease with moly in it like high-pressure disk brake grease: if it does get polluted with gear oil it will turn into a non-lubricating mush. Scored bearings are an expensive fix. Just get a decent, long fiber brown grease. It will do the job just fine. DG

Now if you're going to replace the inner seal, you'll have to take it apart as I said. Be aware these are NOT oil hubs. The outer seal stops gear lube from getting into the bearings. You also have to put a blob of silicone in the spindle keyway to effect the sealing. Originally they used...

No, not talking about the lug nuts. The drum can be removed without taking the axle out, pulling the bearing retaining nuts and bearings, and pulling the entire assembly. That is, if you can get the 'little' nuts off. Then worry the drum off, which ain't easy. It is a lot easier for me, to...

Drum nuts? If I read it correctly, it is far easier to just pull the entire drum assy. I've never had to separate those parts doing brake/bearing maintenance. DG

I may be all wet, but I seem to remember M37 springs will fit. Open for correction, tho. DG

A tiny drop of DOT5 brake fluid makes them much easier to work with. DG

42K is ancient on a tactical. Exceptionally so. DG

I have both Goodyear AT2A and Michelin XL tires here. I went with the Goodyears, as they just look tougher. All failures have been flats, occurring from running over junk at slow speeds. Shredded the things to pieces before I wanted to stop. Otherwise I've run them many miles on highways @...

Any relationship will go sour with inattentiveness... DG

Yes, a clutch adjustment would be the first task. If that does it, you've saved a lot of work and a bit of $. DG

I second that. SS are much improved for off-road, especially in sand or mud. Duals have the upper hand with weight, and that of a wrecker itself, plus your tagalong adds up fast. DG

They aren't "combat" wheels, meant to be changed in the field with just wrenches. (Which is BS, as they are harder to work with than regular lockring wheels). They are tubeless wheels, necessary as using rubber beadlock cylinders on a central inflation system. Meant to be repaired at unit...

There is not much wrong with a properly serviced air-over-hydraulic system. They are not prone to failure. Straight air brakes are fine as well. However, they have to have air to function. Spring brakes will set if air pressure is lost, which can very unnerving. Lose an air hose on a semi...