Search results

I have an M35A2 with 365\80R20's, which are the metric equivalent to the 14.5's on the A3. I'm finding that 41 psi in the rears and 45 psi in the front results in about 2" from both sides not even touching the ground. I would like to hear from folks with A3 trucks that have the CTIS removed or...

I need to do this on my truck one of these days. Can one (or more) of you provide a source of a good quality zipperless boot? Murray has them reasonably priced and they are on eBay (Big Mikes). I can't speak to the quality though...

The first pic (left side) is correct; the rubber side of the seal engages with the bearing outer race.

I pulled all of them from the axles shortly after purchasing the truck and they all were packed with crud. I'm convinced they were plugged. I cleaned them by using degreaser and a solvent tank that eats oils. Also swabbed them out with Q-tips till squeaky clean. I just recently pulled the...

This is covered in other threads.

This is covered in separate thread(s). I even posted a youtube video on the checks on my injectors. Take them to a local shop and they can save you the hassle and likely do it for a reasonable price.

Yea, I need to do that. I've found that sometimes the truck is gutless and boost will be limitied to 3-4 psi with EGT at ~900F or so. Other times it is on an amp and gets up to 7pst of boost with EGT abotu ~1000F or so. It would seem that the FDC makes errors and sometimes inadvertently turns...

aero turbine muffler?

I haven't removed these myself, but as M-1028 suggests they appear to have fixed nuts below the cab floor. Have you tried running a long extension up to the screw heads and give them a twist?

Can you take a pic of the area of the bolts you're asking for help with?

Yikes! Yet another thing for me to add to the tool box in case of a breakdown...

Excellent info thanks! The surplus places that do have the stuff seem to be wanting increasingly unrealistic prices. I thought part of the idea with these beasts is being able to get reasonably priced surplus parts... A quick web search of Delco 40MT turned up a bunch of leads alone and...

My truck has had occurances where I got the "click" instead of a start. The 1st time I waited a few minutes and it started normally. The second time I used a piece of 12GA solid copper wire to short the solenoid start pin to the positive cable, after that it's started fine. Do any of you know...

I find that people want way too much for these if you find them. In my area I found one and they want $2800 without the trolly. I have a CAD package and can generate documentation with 3D models if I can get my hands on a sample.

I concur.

I mounted a boost and pyro gage over the column as the other guys suggest. I used peashooter's box with VDO gages. I have pics on this site in another thread. They look great!

I had a similar problem with my truck (the hoses). If you poke around on the site here I wrote an explanation and included pictures of the fix. It's in What did you do to your deuce this week? post #1680. On page 168.

Oh, makes me very hesitant to pull mine. Thanks for sharing and I hope it works out for you!

Good suggestion! Thinking about it some more, I would kick it off by purging the primary and secondary filter bleeders with the fuel pump on to see how well it flows and if it all comes out clean. You likely already did this with the filter change.

Sorry to hear you're still having trouble. Didn't you have a separate thread for this a couple weeks ago? I don’t think you are getting enough fuel squirted in there. HH? Didn't you ask about getting some o-rings for the HH a while back? I removed my turbo a while back and noticed the wet...