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Standard equipment on most of the GM Diesels...

Thanks to all who responded and purchased the air tank drain kits... all orders have been shipped. There are a few left. Some of you expressed interest and did not follow through with the payment. Last chance before I consign them to the retail side at the local flea markets in MVPA land...

Complete and wonderful diagrams and wire numbering system are in your manuals... The TM 9-2320-280 series

I have a kit for extending the pintle on the hummer.. big triangular piece with all kinds of bolts and insulators and hulking black appearance... probably all there never installed...$175.. plus heavy shipping from 05839 or I can bring prepaid to Webster, Weare, VT, or CT shows...

How do you figure to stop the beast..?? ya all got a on board compressor on your pickup? You can convert the hitch to a surge brake type and plumb into the onboard hydraulic system and eliminate the air booster

Should be fine...but the WWII switch for tanks... pull and turn is is better looking and more capacity .. I was in Karlsruhe for 27 months in 64,5,6...Nice City...drive to Paris for the weekend..or take the train to Innsbruck...

The writeup would have been a TB Possible that Portrayal Press is doing a reprint...

RE: steering I have a good takeoff power steering pump for $100. Remember that these units use engine oil and not ATF or some hokey power steering fluid... see the lube order...

Have you tried Winer in Akron? ACE

Sure looks like you would use a stake in the pocket in the fixed part of the body, not the one on the dropside.. I seem to remember a similar problem on the 5 ton 800 series... I put in an extra top bow assy and fixed that one... ACE

Taking it out and rebuilding it with whatever it needs is the way to go if you are not in a hurry... Ya all remember to start in first gear all the time and this type of problem will not fester up as often... especially those folks with the sprag who need to do the first reverse shift at...

RE: Another way... We never had the velcro stuff in the old age days.. I understand how they can pop out with the wind a blowing.. The installation instructions I have seen were in the upgrade kits to put the rods on earlier trucks.. I am topless most of the time anyway.. ACE

The choice is yours.. However you get my standard advice... Get the Manuals for the truck you are interested in and read them in bed for a coupla weeks before you make your decision. Will it fit in your garage, will it fit in your SO's plans... Can you register it as an antique or a special...

$200 is about it... ACE

Holes too big...specific drill size is documented in installation instructions.. Secondly, a little bend in the end may minimize your situation...but we lasted 40 years without the stiffener rods, anyway... ACE

Remember that on the 6602 you have two thermostats, I believe.. I have them new for $15 ea.. ACE (of course the old electric sender temp gauges are notoriously inaccurate...)

My usual rant about the manuals...The operators manual states: M1009 payload 1200 lbs... M1008 payload 2900 lbs.. M1010 2080 lbs M1028 3600 lbs and so forth. Payload includes passengers and driver... Your comment re 1200 lbs leads me to believe this topic is re the M1009 GVW of 6400 lbs...

If you put a load meter on the positive cable and disconnect the loads one at a time you will find your mystery consumer in a hurry... Most folks forget to turn off their dash lights and this is the mystery drain..However with the old 25 amp generator and regulator setup there is always a small...

Start with tire pressure and balance, do toe in, change the steering stabilizer..it is there for a reason..check wheel bearings for looseness, and other steering linkage.. even a bad tie rod end can add to your wobble....ACE

M34 is a little faster.. 1100 vs 900 tires. M34 looks better in my opinion... ACE