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You will probably find a NP242 T case, it looks like when they upgraded these it included a 6.5L and the later T case

Classic TH400

They have a listing for H1, don't remember the part #, they bolt right up, I have them on both of my HMMWVs

GM Manual Transmission and Transfer Case Fluid 88861800 is for cast iron transmissions and transfer cases, it is gear oil and should not be used in an aluminum transfer case. I use DEX III but many use DEX VI

You can even do them yourself they simply bolt together, I have never tried to get a tire shop to do one, I suspect because they have likely never done one getting a local shop to do it would be difficult, "two piece rim" usually raises red flags, your truck will likely need tires as most are...

WE WILL ENDEAVOR TO PERSEVERE!!!!!! Man this was a fight to the finish! bent the pull plate to its limit. Then I heated the adjuster plate where it was stuck for the second time, allot of heat, it started to go tink, tink, tink then a small bang! So I straightened out the pull plate by heating...

There is no doubt that the safety equipment installed on new vehicle have saved many lives, but there would be MANY less deaths if we actually spent the time to teach folks to drive, the first thing at least 75% of the drivers do when faced with a situation is slam on the brakes because that is...

How did we ever survive the pre 80s with no traction control anti skid brakes and such,,, WE LEARNED HOW TO DRIVE!!!

Holy Moly, I am actually starting to bend that piece of 3/8" plate, going to let it "rest" until tomorrow then I am going to start adding heat to the adjuster block (where it is stuck)

NEVER TURN YOUR BACK ON THE ENEMY!!!

Well I used some heat and got the spring plate off of the torsion bar, as I suspected at 27mm this bar is WAY to heavy for a vehicle that weighs 100lb less than a bug, I am thinking 22-23MM would be fine, so this leaves me the option to cut off the splined section and weld up a thick plate with...

CAMO is correct, my bad! His encouragement is a little surprising, must be profit in it for him:cool:

Unless it is driving a tachometer the AC tap is only used by the STE/ICE diag port, I have to agree with the others, it seems you are going to allot of expense and a ton of work so you could POSSIBLY save a little amount of money and work down the road, and lowering the resale value to boot. But...

It might be, it does not look as massive as the 200A come to think about it. I have a 100A on the floor around here somewhere, I thought it used the same dual voltage reg as the 200A

It would be called a STE/ICE engine diagnostics kit, nobody just sells the connector that I know of and it is not designed to drive any accessories

Interesting, it does not look like that regulator has a 14V tap, should be the same otherwise, the sense post may also be labeled IGN. that is where the #5 wire goes.

568 gets abandoned (there should be a blind plug in the kit for it, if not tape off the end and tie it back where it cannot short out), 2A goes to the AC terminal, 5A goes to the sense terminal and you will have to run new much larger cable to the battery box from the 28V output and also a lead...

You can take a hot knife (I used an old knife heated with a torch) to "cut" the old kickdown cam down to the exposed pin, then simply insert a screwdriver and twist, the cam will split on the other side where the non exposed pin is leaving the pin in place and it being not necessary to try and...

Well I hoped that I would be able to report that I had the FAV's chassis completely stripped but the torsion bars are stuck and I am at the point that destructive measures may need to be taken, I am going to give it a few days more of soaking before I continue, worst case scenario I will have to...

Yes that is the procedure to check the controller "out of circuit"