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I do not know what procedure you are talking about, can you link to it?

WELCOME to the forum!! The relay you hear is the run relay, the glow plugs are powered by CMOS switches (solid state) on most EESS boxes, if the temp controller tests bad it is by far the cheapest fix there could be. you have confirmed there is no power going the the actual glow plugs yes?

Sounds like they finally got that big government contract filled, now they are free to sell them again.

Must have been re-powered, all HMMWVs have always had the same basic engine.

The HMMWV is a PITA from one end to the other, I worked as a line mechanic for Tom Benson in SA in the early 70s, the dispatcher was a friend and would steer as many vets my way as he could, even a few L88s, man those were the days, I was called up on the carpet more than once because of the...

Here is the troubleshooting guide for the transmission, it may be helpful on the telltale trans light. That may or may not be related to the total power outage you experienced.

Welcome to the forum! I think what you are looking for is a well nut, they are rubber and have a brass threaded insert. I am sure they are listed in the TM, and I am sure someone will chime in, lots of folks here willing to help.

I would say you still have an issue, replacing the run switch has nothing to do with the headlights, if they were not working when it would not start and they are now, again nothing to do with the run switch as the headlight power does not go through the run switch. You should have some load...

Welcome to the forum, I cannot help on the armor but there are lots of folks here willing to help. You may change you mind however about the difficulty of the tasks ahead compared to the vet, but it sounds like you are off to a good start!! You still have not updated your location...

No headlights has nothing to do with the ign. switch, although all power to the headlights and run switch go through the PCB box. I would start by checking voltage from the neg and pos term on the battery to the engine block with the headlights on to make sure it is not the main ground lead...

AFAIK they are all the same for the 6.2 and 6.5L NA

There is no 2H, and that is a good lesson that hopefully did not cost you too much, Always chock the wheels when working on an incline

Not likely, just replace the entire piece. You may be able to find a good used one, I have a couple laying around here, more trouble to ship than they are worth.

You should not be creating multiple posts on the same subject.

I did get to put in a few hours today, she is looking pretty sparse, lots of blaster and patience, no big surprises or disappointments. There are some stuff that will need to be straightened and some drilling and tapping, for example the "dog-bones" on the sway bar have 1/2" holes but they were...

Well you cannot say that, not all HMMWVs have the engine they were produced with, in fact many don't

6.5L does it have a GEP sticker on the left valve cover? You can tell it is a 6.5L by the bolt holding the oil pump drive.

That 14V tap is only good for about 20A or so and I doubt very seriously it would work at all without the 28V tap connected to a set of batteries and as CAMO said go all in or not at all. That 14V tap was only designed to compensate for the small ammout of 14V used by the transmission

Sounds like all you need is a GOOD switch and another starter :(

I think what he was eluding to was that the cheap switch was partially energizing the starter all the time which caused at least the second starter to fail as it was engaging or at least trying to engage the bendix all of the time. The second starter is now damaged, no switch is going to help it.