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No they will not, you have to change everything that is 24Vm including the glow plugs and some means of controlling them, CAMO may be able to build you a custom EESS box for 12V, otherwise it is a massive re-wiring job, best to start over and re-wire the entire truck.

I missed all of the Labor Day weekend at the beach, it rained the entire weekend, driving on a wet beach is suicide for the vehicle. I never get tired of watching the sun rise over the Gulf...

BTW which one did you go with, the new one or the rebuilt one?

Everything else aside, if that bendix cannot even be pushed back at this point you have a mechanical issue with the starter.

Does seem like that starter failed if the bendix will not retract, that bites!!

I have never seen that sticker, certainly not the "usual" one for sure, take a picture of the back of the engine with the doghouse removed, you may have a 6.5L

Looks like a nice rig, nothing like that coming out of Texas at this time.

Picture of the sticker please.

I did get to spend a couple hours on the FAV today, removed the shocks,floor pans and the front bumper (which is a mess). I found many rounded off nut/bolt heads, many bolts that were too long or too short for the application. I re-positioned the FAV on the lift and can get it to a perfect...

I wonder why it was not an R2?

Did you install rivnuts?

All the ones I have seen that have come up in Texas are three speed, and what they are getting for those junkers is amazing

This may also help, it is generic to all MVs

Can anyone show that running a 180 thermostat actually causes it to run cooler? the fan determines the temp not the thermostat, there is not enough air flow to run "on the thermostat" it will always heat up to the point the fan kicks in. I have now tried 180 and no thermostat makes no...

This is what I needed so far to get a bonded Texas title. FIRST step, when going to the regional DMV office you will need the following. A bottle of Pepto-Bismol, a few packets of Plop Plop Fiz Fiz and possibly a chill pill or two.. A check for $15 payable to the TXDMV VTR-130-SOF, Bonded...

I happened to be in Beeville at the store when the tax office left me a voice mail saying I had forgot to date the surety bond, I was literally across the street from the tax office, by the time I got there it was 12:07 and the office was closed, one of the ladies pulling out of the parking lot...

I did the same thing with some that were too long only I did not even glue the ends, one out out of five loses about 2-3lb a month, still stable after 6000 miles

Should not be necessary the only time that circuit pulls any current is when in 4th gear, I would just use a fused link to the 12V source

A 2" body lift requires body modification where the steering shaft goes through the body, fuel tank spacers and modification of the fuel fill hose. I ended up having to trim the body mount to clear the fill hose. BTW that body mount is 30 years old.

The switched power to the alt is 24V, you need 12V for the TC lockup, if you are only running TC in 4th you really do not need switched 12V to the TC lockup wire.