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Remove the speedo cable but you can leave the gear etc. in place. EDIT, of course you want to replace the rear seal

Did you check the bolts?

Now that the paperwork seems to be behind me it is time to start restoration of serial number 10. The plan is to to strip it down to the bare chassis, strip and repaint everything, I plan to re-use every serviceable part not to save money but to keep it as original as possible. The front end...

IIRC there are three different part numbers for the M998, they are not all the same.

Is this two M151s marked company A vehicle 821?

I suspect the 400A has a larger charging (28V) cable than the 200A but should work fine, the ign. sense, AC and 14V wires should also work fine, you should just need the brackets and pulley, maybe a different serpentine belt. the regulators are mounted to the alt so that wiring will be already...

Something is awry here, I do not remember anyone complaining about squeaking rubber bushings before, just about everyone using poly bushings complain about squeaking sooner or later. Are you sure you have the correct bushings with the center piece that limits the compression?

$40 VIN verification $20 weight ticket $15 Regional DMV title application fee $135 surety bond for 9K (1.5X the appraised value) $13 title application fee $15 terp title fee?? $375 sales tax $37.50 sales tax penalty (for being more than 30 days from purchase, no credit for jumping through hoops...

It should not stay hot after the run switch is turned off, here is the troubleshooting guide. The first thing I would check is if the transmission power relay is working correctly, but there is one lead that has power all the time on the TCM so it could be a bad TCM also

You do not need to dissemble the engine to replace the rear seal on a 6.5L, have you followed the second paragraph on the first page you posted? If you have a fording CDR valve are you sure it is in the right position? It is not unheard of but relatively rare the rear seal would leak on a 6.5L...

IN!

I am just curious, what is a set of rear seat bases worth?

Welcome to the forum! I am sure you will get some comments/advice on this issue. Please put your city/state in your location.

Really nice guy, He also has a place in Port A and a dune buggy, we talked for a while and when he went into the store I got a hair and took off for the beach, a couple miles down the road I realized I had not offered him a chance to drive the DuraVee, I felt bad and if he does have a place in...

As Doghead pointed out a simple search would have also turned up results for you as this has been covered a bazillion times. I do not believe anyone told you to look it up yourself. There are lots of folks here willing to help but someone had to look up the information FOR you as nobody...

According to CAMOs numbers the gauge should be reading around 170-180 @ 1.28K

Make sure to get a "matched" pair, one used to be able to buy them at the local parts store but no longer, the best you can do is make sure the 2 belts have the same production code/date There are military matched sets out there also. The community wants you to read the TMs because we...

OK but it is much easier to catch it in a 5 gal bucket than when it is poring all over the place running down the suspension etc. I have a deal with a local auto shop, it is NOT a good idea to mix the coolant with oil, it costs much more to processes it..

If someone else does not chime in I will look in the am, but I do not understand the bolts question, as per the TM none of them should be visible from the "top" of the hood, it mounts to captured nuts from underneath, #15

Pictures would realy help