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I'd toss that thing aside in a heartbeat and get an 002, if you want 3 phase, simplicity and affordable and an 1800rpm diesel.

If you still need this info I have one of those trailers at home and can check tonight. Also need to check if they are RH or LH threads on it, I don't recall.

I'd say most likely No, you won't find a typical generator repair or small engine shop that will go anywhere near any military generator with a 10' hot stick ( or any other Pole ) Most likely even if you could find someone to work on it, paying them to fix it will not be worth while. You'd be...

When you replaced the gages did you use the exact same style gages? As an FYI, when switching from the old style gages with the blue housing ( and red cap in the empty bulb hole ) to the newer Faria Beede gages with the white body and twist in back light bulb installed, the wires on the gage go...

What a surprise it would be if some porch pirate opens himself ( or herself ) up a brand new radiator bottle for "Christmas" Bet he was hoping for a new set of Earbuds or perhaps some other electronics.... not a plastic bottle! If it happens to get stolen, you may get it back with a sympathy...

Kurt should be here to assist you shortly! He's your best resource for all things "VR" related. If your VR turns out to be the issue, I 2nd the recommendation to use his updated replacement.

For starters, are you sure the fuse holder has the correct fuse in it? 3A, but are you using a slow blow fuse or a fast acting one? How long will it run before blowing the fuse, a few minutes or does it pop almost instantly? Also, reading your post, it sounds like even while holding the switch...

Don't worry about the "battery" the Ammeter only shows you the amount of charge or discharge amps while running. With the machine off it will always read right between the red and green. With it running it should go up to the right into the green after starting and slowly settle back very close...

I personally don't see anything all that disturbing just yet. I think a lot of it is simply the air pulses from the 2 cylinders being in-line with each other. The only way to tell for sure is to test crankcase pressure ( supposed to be a slight vacuum ) with a monometer and not rely on what...

I've had several 803's with low hours that were caked up with carbon to the point that none of the 4 cylinders had compression due to the valves being held off their seats by carbon buildup.

Start with the dead crank switch, is it in the normal position? Next is the red emergency stop button pulled out? Next is the 7.5A DC circuit breaker behind the control panel, is it pressed in? If still no luck the next thing I would check is the CR1 diode on the PCB board in the back rear...

Most folks say to step up the load sequentially, allowing enough time between steps for the smoke to clear out. You could start at 50% for an hour, if it clears at 50% step it up to 75% and leave it until it clears again, then step it up and see if she will handle 100% If you still have no luck...

Also looks like you may have a bad fuel level sensor. I don't think the gage is normally that far left when turned off. You'll know once you get your batteries installed. If it's bad its a pretty simple fix using an aftermarket marine style sending unit.

Pretty clean from what you showed so far. I assume ( hopefully ) that the exhaust pipe was taped over when you got it? Those engines are notorious for getting water into the cylinders when the flaps are missing, but I'd assume you would already know if the engine was seized and it looks like...

Yup, they sure can wet stack! I've had a handful of 803's carboned up to the point that the valves won't close all the way, Lister Petter even sells a gasket kit called a Decarboning kit which includes everything needed to yank the head off and clean it. Granted, these were extreme cases where...

Ah, they're just getting started, 5 days is nothing! This time last year I had a package sit in the local terminal for over 21 days. When I talked to my local branch about it the woman said " it's only been 3 weeks, I've seen packages take much longer than that! "

IF it comes to that, I would just rebuild the one in the machine. It's pretty easy and the parts are fairly east to get. Once you understand the method of timing and find the "PC" timing mark on the flywheel, the rest is simple mechanics. Start by doing the compression test and go from there...

I'm back to suspecting you may have a skipped plunger guide, possibly even a plunger guide that has not only skipped once, but may be occasionally skipping additional times while you have been testing and troubleshooting. This may explain both the odd running behavior as well as the fuel residue...