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As to shifting at higher speeds, any automatic will do this when you get on the throttle. The closer you approach "wide open throttle", the higher your shift points will be. The assumption being that if you are mashing the accelerator pedal that far then you intend to, well accelerate.

Pushing your vehicle harder than needed isn't ideal, but we all do it sometimes. In regards to why it sounded like it was cruising at lower rpm at 55 after is because it was at a lower rpm. Assuming your '08 is all stock: you said you were getting into 3rd over 40 mph. 4.56 gears in a 1.48...

If you disconnect/remove the sending unit for the idiot light the dash light will remain off. You can swap the current temp sender with the appropriate sender for your gauge of choice. As far as illuminating gauges, I tied into the lighting for the volt meter. If I remember correctly you have...

For typical driving that sounds normal. If you really get down on the throttle those shift points should be higher. You can also manually shift if you have a need to raise the shift points for a specific application.

I've seen a lot on different oil burner forums about people running what they are calling W85 - 85%WMO 15%RUG. Lots of people saying this is what they run in 6.2's and other diesel engines. Supposedly this mix yields a product with similar characteristics to diesel in both its viscosity as well...

As to overheating at 55. Your thermostat could be stuck closed so coolant isn't getting circulated through the radiator, your radiator could be clogged or your idiot light/sender could be malfunctioning among other possibilities.

The sender for the idiot light and the temp sensor for the glow plugs is not the same. The glow plug temp sensor is at the back and the idiot light sender is at the front front. You can't use a gauge with the current sender. If you purchase a gauge and its appropriate sending unit you can remove...

You can also take out the existing sender and put one for an actual gauge so you can see how hot you are running all the time. With the idiot light you might be sitting just under the threshold for the light to come on and thinking all is well just because the light isn't on. What temp is the...

It's much easier, faster and cheaper to change the input shaft in the np208 rather than the output shaft of the 700r4. Less than $100 and an hour of your time. The TV cable bracket is the hard part. If you can get that, then the rest if the 700r4 swap is very straight forward. Search this site...

I would think it'd be the same either way. Aren't the two vehicles the same from the dash forward?

I have no idea if I'm right but it would seem like you could snip the wires for the gen lights before they get to the instrument cluster and reroute them to another location for a light instead of them flowing into the board behind the cluster. I guess you would still need to use a bulb that...

I have a question for you other 700r4 users. I'm trying to decide on best practice for around town driving. I go through a lot of stretches of 100 yards or so, then stop light, then another 100 or yards. Traffic flow gets up to 40-50 maybe more if you make a green. I generally leave it in 3rd...

I just noticed something, and I'm not trying to be rude. Isn't it time consuming to capitalize the first letter of every single word? It reads well because I didn't notice the first time I read through your post.

(0.00595) * (RPM * r) / (R1 * R2) = vehicle speed in miles/hour 0.00595 = conversion from inches per minute to miles per hour RPM = engine speed, in revolutions/minute r = tire radius (midpoint to pavement) R1 = transmission gear ratio R2 =...

92 or 93 is when they changed the name from 700r4 to 4l60. Some time in 93 or 94 it became 4l60E, E for electronically controlled. You don't want a 4L60E unless you want to get a computer controller. If you're getting a controller you might as well get a 4L80E

With 3.08 gears, 32" tires and the 700r4's 0.7 overdrive you'd be under 1500 rpm's at 65. Unless you were on a long flat road I don't think the overdrive and stock 3.08's go well together. My 1028 with 4.56 gears in overdrive doing 60 is about 2000 rpm's.

I was wondering where/how the bracket attached to the 6.2 when I was installing my 700r4. I asked the question and got pics in this thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/96285-700r4-tv-cable-bracket-installation.html

Has anyone done this? Might be nice when towing to have the 700r4 in 3rd with TC locked and GV as overdrive. Double overdrive might be overkill.

I don't think it could kick down to 3rd at that speed. You'd be turning something like 3700 rpm's, assuming stock gearing and tires.

On the crossmember, there are two different adapters for the 700r4/np208, a tall and a short. Using the tall adapter in my 1028 required no mods to my existing crossmember. The short adapter would have required a different crossmember or some other fab work. I don't know what the M1009's have. I...