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Yeah, I suppose that would remedy that issue for the most part. Although the ground clearance loss between the 2 cross members is very substantial so I think I'll go ahead and probably go back to the flat style with some mods this winter. Thanks for the insight.

I was more concerned with the transfercase and transmission not getting proper lubrication since the trans and tcase are now hanging roughly 4 inches or so lower then it was intended from the factory. The drain plugs are both rear mounted so both the trans and tcase are under filled.

So yesterday I was doing a u joint change on my M1008's rear shaft. And when I pulled the shaft out, the t case puked out its atf fluid a bit. And It got me thinking that when the truck had the TH400 setup it didn't do that to this extent. When I did my NV4500 swap I used the double hump cross...

Its just a normal 32 spline output slip yoke. The slip yoke goes into almost all aluminum cases from these series of trucks including the later NP205 cases. If its for a M1008 you'll just need a 32 spline slip yoke for a 1350 u joint. Its a spicer 3-3-5551X if I remember correctly. I'm sure...

You have to measure the spring pack width right where they mount on the axle perch. Last time I remember they are 2.5". Its a very big misconception because people measure at the end of the spring pack and they assume they have 3" wide springs.

Also lastly, if you do use an external slave nv4500, you will need a lift. I have a 2.5" skyjacker kit and under certain conditions the front shaft would hit the bellhousing which made me cringe. So I put on a set of 5.5" shackles which is 1.5" longer then stock along with going to 1/2" bolts...

As for the clutch line, I was using an external '93 nv4500 as I wanted the low first gear and wanted nothing to do with the internal slave issues. I used an earls adapter on the factory 85-91 chevy master with a stainless ptfe line. I used the factory style external slave with an adapter that...

After I did a 700r4 swap and finding it not that great with the O/D gear being too low. I did the Nv4500 swap. I could only find a set of pedals from a vacuum booster truck. But the brake pedal had two holes punched out for the pin far as I could see. One hole for the vacuum brakes and one for...

I think you'd be much further ahead to go selectable. such as an eaton elocker, ox locker, arb etc You want to be able to steer when you need to. Especially if you plan on driving it in snow or inclement weather. I was at this point last year and instead of an ox front locker I went with a winch...

easy things to do for water are to relocate the breathers, these are pretty major as the trans and transfer case breathers aren't really located in ideal positions and provide way too easy entry for water. The front axle breather is really the only well placed breather. I have my trans and...

If the inner and outer retainer rings aren't gone, I'd say its probably just fine as long as it goes in and out. The front hubs aren't really fully water proof to start with, hence repacking wheel bearings after any sort of long term amount of adverse terrain. Although if you feel a new o-ring...

As a person who has done the usual disc brake swap with the front chevy calipers and then swapped to the eldorado calipers for an ebrake after a nv4500 swap, it really wasn't that bad. Although I see most kits use the later 70s and 80s eldo calipers, I have the early 76 style calipers and they...

I've had several K30 and K20 trucks and one blazer used in the bush for mineral exploration and logging operations, all these trucks usually had 33's or 35's and lifted a tad and were used hard. I've never seen any of them develop cracks around the steering box. The only frame cracks to date was...

I have a 2 1/2" full skyjacker kit and the stock brake lines were plenty long. The easiest thing to do with the front ones is actually give them a few light taps with a hammer where the steel part of the flex line is at the caliper, to bend the line up a bit, not to an extreme. No one can tell I...

One of the things you should do before putting in a new mat is replacing the vent door seals. Every time I've gone to pull up the factory mats in any square body truck, the pad underneath has been completely soaked because water leaks in through the foot well vents. So I replace those seals with...

I've never looked for the hole in the bracket, I've always had one of these tools, had it forever and it works mint. I think its made by a company called thexton. It just hooks over the bracket, same as Drock's bent pry bar idea pretty much. I've seen so many dented P/S pumps from goons who pry...

I just removed one of the newer filter heads from my M1008. It didn't leak and it looks almost new. Even the casting looks great. It is the updated one with no pressure sensor, if your interested in it let me know. I'm in Ontario so it'd be closer then getting one from the lower 48. Cheers

I have a stewart warner tach that has a hall effect sensor. Back when the truck had the 700r4, The bracket was just a 2" wide piece of steel about 6" long or so with a bend in it. It used one of the bellhousing bolts to mount. There was a hole in the bellhousing cover and the sensor went into...

dummy light for water in fuel won't turn on. You'll lose your fuel heater, water in fuel sensor and filter change sensor if you still have the original 3 connector style filter head. But considering your in texas you won't need the fuel heater and most spin on setups have clear bowls to check...

I originally posted about this filter head awhile ago. The main thing that needs to be done is changing the connectors. The fuel heater and water in fuel sensor on this fuel filter and the cucv model 80 have the exact same setup. The wire colors are the same. look at the two or three connectors...