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Your rad could be broken that way. I've never seen that but it is all in the same unit so its more than possible I suppose. I'd also check your transfer case aswell. Sometimes the seals go bad between the trans and tcase and the trans empties into the tcase.

So after owning several cucvs in the last few years, My most recent being an M1008 with the th400 and stock 235's. It was getting about 12mpg towing and 14mpg with normal driving in town. I did an auto overdrive swap on it from parts I had from a diesel blazer. The truck gained highway drive...

I'd start pulling fuses and checking the battery for the drain to see which circuit is the cause.

Ive never bought the repro vinyl foam ones, But I have bought the OER Urethane ones from summit. I've only bought brown ones thus far but the color match is spot on and it installed well. Didn't see a point in getting a dash that will just crack again and the urethane cleans easier. You wouldn't...

All my CUCV crank pulleys wobble a bit. Never had an issue with them. Harmonic balancer's are all good as well.

Yeah, I bought one of those putco ones and I don't think the relays lasted more then 15 minutes, no inline fuse before the relays and the connectors were not built to good tolerances. The painless one is P/N 30815. It can be installed perfectly into these trucks. The only thing you'll have to do...

Don't use the LMC harness. its made by putco and its garbage. Get the painless one its way nicer, with zero mods. I put the painless harness on one of my trucks and the stock headlights got way brighter, then I replaced with hella european lenses with 80/100w bulbs. stepped into the 21st...

I use 2 optima 34/78's on the back tray together. Love having the extra space up front now. Thinking about maybe adding an ammo can for some tools or fluids.

Shouldn't be. Truck probably got a new shaft in its life and there isn't a grease fitting for the slip yoke. I have a few shafts, most have the fitting but I noticed 1 of my newer reman shafts doesn't have one.

The fittings looks like this. Every decent parts place I've been too has these GM fuel line repair kits hanging somewhere.

On a 6.5 turbo project of mine I use the regular frame mounted AC Delco unit. An EP158. Its supposed to use GM's o-ring style lines but you could probably use normal fittings since its low pressure. The application is for a 93 6.5 turbo truck.

I'm thinking IP is leaking down over a longer time period causing hard starts. Throttle shaft seals do go bad. They usually stop leaking after engine warm up. They will eventually get to the point where they leak bad enough and it'll do this exact thing. After 5 to 10 mins is pretty short though.

I'd say the absolute cheapest way to get the revs down is to up your tire size. I wouldn't regear. The differential carriers split after 4.10s. So you would be stuck buying a used or new set of carriers and you would lose your rear Detroit unless you bought another one. I've done a 700R4 swap in...

I wonder if the tube isn't fully seated in the pan. Is the tube still bolted to the drivers exhaust manifold? They have a habit of the spot welds breaking so the tube isn't held to the mount anymore. Might have happened if the guy didn't pull the tube out first and was yanking on it during pan...

hope he wasn't asking more than 300 bucks haha! I have the exact same trailer, right down to the mudflaps. only no rust and a cover.

With an automatic the torque converter actually multiplies your ratios by 1.5 and even 2 times in low gear. From a physics point of view, say someone was stuck in a ditch, I would hook myself up in the front and use reverse. When the strap is fully extended when snatching the stuck vehicle, it...

One other thing I forget to mention is the use of spacers to get to the filter head away from the firewall as the blower motor wiring for your heater comes out right behind it. I used these sleeves as I pictured above which were the perfect length by chance. And the factory fuel heater plug on...

The thing I found out with this filter head though, is that it is designed for GM's o ring style fittings as I show. But I used 3/8 flare fittings to a coupler then to a regular NPT style fitting. NPT fittings will not fit direct into the housing. Flare fittings must be used. My reason for using...

As requested. Have a lot more pics of the entire process but the photo up loader is a PITA.

EME411, Im assuming that truck is near mint with 125 miles on it. Have any pics of it? or is it pretty gutted being a "learning platform".