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Got 'em on my birthday list (January). Thanks for the update. Norm

I've PM'd you. Thanks. Norm

Thank you. I kind of figured this was the way they'd work, just couldn't find a picture on the website. Norm.

Thanks. Is it aluminum or steel? Tubing should bend less than the coat hanger-metal they used first generation, no?

D'oh! Meant to add this. Looks like something COULD be cobbled up, holes seem to be in the right place, but the cable guide/rollers are in the way of the lower bracket.

Welp, NOT the neutral switch. NOT the battery cables. NOT something left loose nor the ground wire harness misapplied. It's the STARTER switch. Doing circuit tracing and looked at the back of the switch where one of the wires plugged in is cracked. The rubber plug is. Jiggled the plug...

Cool. Please show photos when you have them mounted. Mfr says "Simply remove the wheel, use the bolt holes as guides and reinstall the wheel. Steer axle balancers mount between the hub and wheel, while balancers for the duals mount between the dual wheels." Uh, sure. doesn't look/seem...

because I've seen it listed several ways. I've got a standard 1st generation brush guard which would look pretty good sand blasted and painted, but I'd like a stronger bumper. H1 looks like a possibility, EARLY H1 brush guards said to fit early Humvees, not sure I want to take a gamble, plus...

Um, no. Hemostats and forceps are not necessarily the same thing. There are many different kinds, types, shapes. It's like saying needle nose pliers and vise grips are the same 'cause they grip. aua

Reading through this, thinking I may possibly face this in future as I plan on replacing the glow plugs in my truck - giving it a thorough going over and figure hey, what the heck, I have NO clue how well this vehicle was maintained for the past 34k miles, I'll pull 'em anyway to check their...

Been there, seen that, looks a LOT like mine. ;) I blew about $30 and bought the gaskets/rubber boot to replace it all when I open it up eventually to clean/lube. Switch I don't have, but will troubleshoot shortly.

Yeah, curious that this started RIGHT after I put new batteries in. Working voltage was 25.2. At full charge I was showing 25.8V having the system on a solargizer 24v charger (plugged into slave port - I pull it when I'm going to start the beast), I DID have the light switch in the "DIM"...

EXACTLY the answer I was looking for. EZPZ. I'll do that second.

Zombie post warning: Changed out batteries a few weeks ago - optima yellow tops, I've posted pics elsewhere - truck fired RIGHT up. What is that, 1700 CCA? Compared to the date-code label-less toyota batteries with a combined 750 CCA the seller put in there (I knew I'd need upgrades), wowza...

Hmm...

I thought of that, but wasn't sure how much air I could let out safely before I notice the truck not "sinking" anymore or the bead separates. Weighing, THAT I can do while I take the wheels off one at a time to check/drain/fill the geared hubs. Thanks everyone. Norm

Bought an M998 HMMWV in early October and the seller told me he thought the tires had run-flats/runflats/run flats in them, maybe. Why the variations? Because I've looked around on this site and others trying to figure out how I figure out if I do or don't have the things short of deflating...

Tres Cool! But I was thinking of going with something a bit more classic: :-P

I got one from him this past week, hooked it up to my Sark-110 analyzer and WOW does it have some response, 2M is great, 15M great, 10M great, few others I don't recall off-hand. It'll take some time to cleanup and hookup, but it was, I think, a great deal. Norm

parts #47 and 51 Figure 227 TM 9-2320-280-24P-1