Search results

You can usually sand off the paint on the bumper and get to the numbers. You already have everything you need except the vehicle number. The left bumper will have the division and battalion. The right bumper will have C - (veh #). TB 746-93-1 is a good guide. I attached a copy. Your truck...

You are correct - it is a Baldor head and parts are available from Baldor. The fuel tank and some other items are also Baldor. Baldor also sells a wheel kit that will fit the genset.

The Wisconsin Robin GenSet takes an Interstate SP-40 battery, which is 340 CCA. It really spins the engine fast.

I used the invoice from GL for the value.

I believe the starter solenoid disks are made from a tempered beryllium-copper alloy. If it is a BeCu alloy, be careful and not breathe the dust or cut yourself because anything containing beryllium is toxic.

I had a similar blowout on my A3 during the recovery from Sparta in January. Fortunately, it was on the front rear axle, passenger side. The tire also caught fire. It was hard to control the truck when it blew - I can't imagine what it would have been like if a front tire blew.

First of all, welcome to Steel Soldiers. I have an A3 and I simply ran wiring from one battery up into the cab. Very easy and works well. I terminated with a fused cigarette lighter receptacle. I plug CBs, GPS, radios, etc. with no problem. If you are trying to run something that is high...

I never shut mine down while refueling with diesel. Saves wear and tear on the starter as well.

That's good!

Gillespie 24087 holds up really well if you give it a chance to completely cure before stressing it. It seems to remain soft and scratch easily the first few days, but wears extremely well later. Use multiple light coats.

I never saw any vehicles with hard tops with cutouts during my time in the Army 1970 - 71, while stationed with the 3rd Armored Division in Germany - my unit (2/36th Inf) only had canvas tops for all 2-1/2 and 5 ton vehicles. When in the Reserves 72-73 they were all canvas tops as well.

Ditto on what's already been said. I have an M116A2 trailer which is the same thing. I replaced most of the brake lines with lines from one of the parts stores. They come pre-made in many straight lengths and are inexpensive. I can't remember where I got them, but I know it wasn't NAPA...

I've seen NOS ones on Ebay in the past. Not sure about now.

Make sure you are using DOT 5 brake fluid as that A2 most likely has DOT 5 in it and you cannot mix DOT 3 with DOT 5.

This is just such horrible news. Every time I look out and see my A3 sitting in my driveway, it brings the shock back. I hope James' family will be OK.

With 9:00 X 20 NDTs on it you should not drive the truck over 55. That being said, I never take mine over 52 mph and try to keep it around 50. When my A2 is warmed up it sits rock solid on 180 degrees - never goes higher and never goes lower. Someone may have turned up the fuel in your truck...

I have both and like both. However, they are different trucks. I personally like driving the A2 better than the A3 because it goes faster and has a manual transmission. If I take my wife with me, I drive the A3 because it is quieter and she doesn't complain so much, although she still...

I have some GI screwdrivers that came from a truck I bought that were made by some no-name manufacturers that are absolute junk. Very soft steel and handles that were small diameter and hard to hold. Like Carnac advised, it's a turkey shoot. Don't assume anything.

If you are looking for M35A2 TMs, try JATONKAM35s HOME ON THE WEB . You can find all the M35 TMs there.

No offense meant, but I think SS should remain 100% dedicated to MVs. There are many other very good forums out there addressing non-MVs.