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did you pull the cable to open the hot water valve?

Quoted In conclusion: Taking coolant out at the back of the heads reduces the amount of coolant flowing forward and through the heads - plain and simple. That cannot be argued. The cylinder heads generate most of the heat in a running engine, and the cooling system has to move enough coolant...

no sir…the mfg is just trying to peddle his product, I get it, problem is…they just copied something out there that has been dispelled loooong before they ever manufactured their own product.

garbage.…save you’re money. I have a great right up with pics on why it’s actually not good to install a kit because It can actually cause hot spots.

if the upper radiator hose is hard, it’s pressurized. i would run a wire direct from the engine temp sensor to the gauge…I’ve seen high resistance shorts cause erroneous readings. just run it out side of the truck and plug into the gauge, just for a test.

should never get past 220 before the fan engages…the thermostatic switch is likely the culprit, but have you actually verified this to be truly the temperature? Have you changed the radiator cap? have you verified you have built pressure when at operating temperature?

You dont need to pull them to check them, glow plugs just dont fail unless something takes them out. low battery voltage will cause starting issue, check battery health

You are doing something wrong, something is wrong or you are buying used unknown condition boxes, because as a shop that only uses OEM KDS and Narton S3 start boxes, I hAve maybe 1 box a year that is faulty , and those are from the auction that were blown when the truck arrived and most likely...

The U.S. military operates these vehicles in every operation theater on the planet…to include Artic environment,they don’t add additional batteries . The Hawker battery is an incredibly robust battery, albeit expensive, they seem to last what seems forever.

If an owner lives in frigid temp, they should make every effort to ease cold starting, block heater, in door storage etc…there are no benefits to cold starting unaided,

No need to replace the 400amp unless you want to just spend more Momey or it fails…changing the solid pulley to the clutching pulley and correct belt will lower “indicated” RPM’s because the pulley is larger, you are going to tach higher no matter what in these ECV’s due to 2 reason, one is that...

Tachometer is fed from the regulator, most likely the regulator is or has failed.

Just installed my EOD shelter….I’m thinking it’s easier to just run another slave receptacle behind the battery box and install and slave connector to plug into the BEOD shelter…they chopped off the OEM plug, never could figure this out because it’s not hard wired.

I have everything…I have entire parts trucks

I have the items for sale…but just that and nothing else.

Yes, true, but for this exercise in a hmmwv, there is no AC output to utilize off a 200/400 amp unit. I looked in the CE Niehoff book and see AC going to no where…I only see where they refer to AC in testing from the cannon plug. Test phase signal into regulator (AC). Set meter to diode tester...

im still trying to figure out in the absence of an Inverter, that you can have AC…the regulator is not an inverter

I didn’t write the manual….i just work on them 7 days a week

Can’t wait to see the diamond tuck interior.

can you upload the TM’s to this site? If not, send them to me and I can, as well as upload to the FB forums TM section, thanks