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Well there’s your problem, needs to be 24 volts.

First thing to check is if the small wire at the alternator is getting excite voltage when the ignition is turned on.

I would say just under the ring. Btw, I base this JB Weld recommendation based on repairs I did on the bottom of a M715 gas tank long ago.

I would use JB Weld.

Looks like he was helping out with the 40th Anti-Aircraft Artillery Brigade as well (40AAA on the truck bumper in the picture). Picture has to be after 1952 because the M38A1 Jeep in the pic wasn't produced before then. Any other pics in the album with trucks that could provide clues? Any...

Recall that the 100 amp system was a kit installed at depot level. The kit would have had an instruction sheet inside the crate. Nobody I know has a copy. Here is what changed with the 100 amp kit on a M38A1 to the best of my recollection: Ammeter is replaced with voltmeter. Ammeter wires...

Welcome. At that short distance, call around to wrecker outfits that have Landoll recovery trailers, the price might be manageable. These FMTVs need THOROUGH debugging before putting them on the highway.

More alternator info.

Meter needle should be steady on the white tic at idle and above. You are correct that something is not right.

The transmission keypad needs to be fully functioning with no start inhibit codes to allow the start circuit to operate.

One leg of the spider plugs into the volt meter. The gauge is grounded through the case.

Last time I checked that feature was to allow the TOW reloader to hand a round to the gunner without dismounting the truck.

3M Scotch Super 33 is the best you can get. Used by electricians everywhere.

Rode hard and put up wet.

How cool is that! Navy Seabee special procurement. I have seen that setup on civi railroad maintenance-of-way loaders with hyrail.

Sounds like the added lighting load is causing a corroded cable connection somewhere to go open. Clean connections at both ends of all battery cables.

Ha it’s going in a Russian vehicle, smoothness was not a priority for them in any way.

4BT was going to be my suggestion. The turbocharged versions put out good power. The only thing the 6.5 engine belongs in is the HMMWV and that is debatable.

When the engine shuts down, does everything else electrical also go dead?

Looking veey fixable and has all the military goodies still on it. Desperately needs the gasket under the windshield!