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I enjoyed visiting there too. I thought they have been using the KM450's for at least 20 years?

If you have a “A0”, the only ECU present is the transmission controller. 1997 and earlier it is co-located with the keypad. 1998 and on, it is located under the PDP.

If you provide the serial (vin) number from the frame, some provenance may be established using the vin thread.

Sounds like multiple wedge brakes are stuck retracted due to corrosion.

Recall that the 100 amp system is a three phase alternating current alternator that feeds a rectifier that converts the AC to DC. Polarizing generators is a DC generator thing which is not applicable to alternators.

12460423-5 / 01-519-9367 2520-01-519-9367 - MODULATOR, TRANSMISSION (WITH PTC TCM) [TURBO] | Hummer Parts Guy (HPG)

Transmission controller sounds like

See the mirror bracket? This truck was a 1980's truck that was rebuilt. Don't be thinking it's a 2007.

FMTV Fan Clutch Repair | SteelSoldiers Issue I had long ago.

Evaporator has a drain pan to catch condensate. If you reorient the unit, water will go everywhere.

Better bring a U joint in case that one is missing needle bearings or full of dirt.

The four super expensive Hawkers were dead and the flipper didn't know that they can be easily recovered with an AGM charger so he bought the cheapest Wal Mart batteries he could find and slapped them in the box as best he could.

1/2” UNC x 1,25” lg maybe.

One day EUC turnaround? Tells me no paperwork went to DLA. Tells me your truck is a flip. You did see the chewed up driveshaft yoke right? And the battery box mess?

What is going on with the transmission controller at this point? All lit up and no codes?

This is the good one. Picture from Rapco's ebay listing. Oh and make sure you disconnect the batteries before you mate the connectors!

Hmm, do you have a selenium rectifier (in the grille) or one with discrete diodes? The selenium looks like a stack of sheet metal plates. They tend to fail due to age. Suggest you replace it with one of the newer types with diodes.

If the alternator is properly grounded, and the little excite wire has 24 volts going to it with the ignition on, and the heavy gauge wire has 24 volts as well, the alternator needs overhaul or replacement.

My regulator makes a very audible "clunk" when field power is applied. Is your regulator a simple box or does it have a cylindrical finned top? It's possible your system is shot.

According to DA Pamphlet 750-33, pin F needs to go hot +24 volts when the ignition switch is turned on.