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Removing the "Pan" is not a simple task. You will have to disconnect the motor mounts and a few things and lift it up off the frame to be able to drop the pan and access the pickup screen. Not a real big deal, but not as simple as just unbolting the pan and dropping it down either.

On that motor I've never seen a bypass valve get stuck, but anything is possible. The problem is that it is located under the flywheel on the back of the engine, not easily accessible. Try the oil 40W first and see what happens. A little usage may free things up if it is stuck, but I think it is...

Bet you can almost Smell the diesel exhaust already! She'll run... all 002's and 003's do eventually!

You won't be doing anything with the diags plug to troubleshoot this problem. If I understand you correctly, when you disconnect 136D from S1 the CB no longer pops, but that's simply because you have disconnected power to the CB. Best bet like LITD said is unplug everything 1 by 1 until it no...

take a look around for a new circuit breaker, if you can't find it I'm sure I have a used one.

So the inner piece that the cap screws onto ( with the 12 point head ) did not have a metal ring gasket around the center, that seals the cap to the body? Originally it wasn't really a flat copper washer, it was more like a metal O-ring that seals against the beveled lip on the pump body. Also...

Unfortunately there's no fool-proof way to tell if the plunger guide is broken with 100% accuracy. You can pull the center cap, delivery valve and holder off the pump and look in the center of the pump while turning the engine by hand. The plunger should be rotating at 1/2 the speed you're...

Luckily he does have an Ambac pump, but needs to be sure its free none the less! Lots of posts on here as to how to do it, but filling with acetone or seafoam, lacquer thinner, carb clean... anything like that then let sit a few days. I like to pull the delivery valve and holder out so you can...

Yup, I once sold an 003 to a guy, demonstrated it and sold to him without batteries. A week later he called and said fuel pumps would run but no crank / no start. Turned out he put batteries in backwards. Nothing blew and the pumps didn't care, but the starter solenoid etc. didn't like the...

Are you sure Guy? looking at the "Colored" schematic, it looks like power ( red line ) goes through MT-4 then through CR1 , to the dead crank switch, then S17, to CB1 then S1 and S2 out to the panel lights.

If the MT4 shunt is in tact, my next suggestion would be to check CR-1 diode on the board in the rear left of the control cube. think it's the 2nd one up from the bottom? If in doubt, turn all the switches on, put main switch in the run position and briefly touch a wire across CR-1, if the fuel...

Are all 3 of the pumps dead, even aux? If so it has to be a power / ground issue, very unlikely all 3 especially aux. died at the same time. Make sure your chassis grounds and the strap across the motor mount are all clean and tight.

Hi Evvy, You're probably going to have a hard time removing the spray paint without destroying the vinyl stickers under it. Rattle can paint comes off pretty easily with lacquer thinner or acetone as mentioned above. It will require a fair amount of scrubbing to get it out of the texture of the...

Hey guys, sorry I've been away from the forum for a little bit. New job has me actually working instead of slacking off all day, so less time to catch up on generator stuff. I am still making both oil and fuel filter adapters. Send over a PM and I'll see if I can help you out.

There is a 7 1/2 amp DC push button breaker next to the control panel. Have you checked to make sure it's pushed in? Its pouring outside otherwise I would go look, but if I recall its below the fault indicator panel.

Seems we all have different ways of conquering the problem. Whatever work to stop the leak... go with it!. Seems a spin-on final filter would have eliminated a lot of grief!.

Have you tried swapping one of the exciters back into the previously "Good" generator to verify that both exciters are in fact bad? Perhaps something else is going on with the one exciters into and the exciters are not really the problem?

Correct. Oil pressure and temp are in series and hold the Fuel solenoid open when both are closed. If either switch opens, the solenoid releases and shuts down the Injection pump. The temp switch is notorious for failing at any moment.

Talk about no luck but bad luck! Looks like you have a big open field and parked the new gen right next to the only tree that came down!

Unfortunately those canisters are prone to leaks no matter what you do. 99% of the time it's a matter of getting the o-ring ( actually it a square cut ring ) into the groove without it twisting or otherwise getting out of position. Take the bowl off again and make sure the seal is in the groove...