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From what I've been told by mechanics the problem with the CTIS is the rubber O-rings in the axles keep getting leaks in them and it isn't a small job to replace them.

Holy crap, that thing is bad. Thanks for the pics FT.

As long as you had a full set per axle it shouldn't be an issue, I wouldn't want mismatched pads per axle.

Bjorn, I was looking for some oil with a similiar scenario and what I came up with for my scenario is that the materials the seals were made out of have a fire resistance property in them that if you use the incorrect oil reduces these properties. Not exactly answering your question but it is...

check the LO for the vehicle, it will tell you everything you need to know.

Like ranchhopper said, if you try to "baby" the truck during shifting its a heck of a lot harder than just pouring the coals to her when shifting. I had some co-workers that I let drive mine a couple of weeks back and they had one heck of a time shifting because they were trying to baby it too...

Mine in through JC Taylor and had the "kept in locked garage" stipulation. Told my insurance agent (who underwrote through JCT for me) that it is going to be stored on a military base in a secured lot (it is sitting with a bunch of tanks and fun toys) which is more secure than any garage I have...

If the gauge glows in the dark it has the "bad" gauge in it.

I love the engine pictures.....they have to be mutilated but they still covered some of them with plastic for rain protection.....:roll:

I would think you would want to put a plug on the rims where the CTIS lines feed into the tire itself.

What you want it to look like in the end (quality) will determine how much effort you put into the paint effort.....half-ass front end job gets you a half-ass result. Not exactly the answer you were looking for but JMHO

The military has changed everything over to 15W-40 per the maintenance personnel I have talked to.

Stereoman, I haul wood pellets with mine just like you are planning with my diesel '04 Super Duty; the trailer will handle that load no problem. Braking will be you biggest issue, not quite sure the rating of your LC; I just leave a little extra room when I have a load on. If you have a 2"...

Converting to 12 volts basically requires 4 new light bulbs (around $2.00) and making a pigtail from the military wiring (12 pin I believe) down to a 4 pin. Schematics are in the TMs for you to re-wire with. I don't know how much that is worth (it took me 15 minutes to make the pigtail) to...

When I took mine to work 2 weeks ago I had several guys that had to take it for a test drive. Problem was they tried to "baby" the truck too much while shifting through the gears so it wasn't the smoothest drive in the world.

Time to get the old rust bucket of a wrecker out to save them. :twisted:

Preventative Maintenance Checks and Services Make sure to read the -10 manual in the resource section of the website as this is covered in the manual. The -10 should be required reading for all MV owners, especially new ones.

How could he argue with that, you proved it works properly as part of your required maintenance. Just tell him its part of the PMCS for the truck :twisted:

If the brake cylinders are leaking you may not see oil. On the truck we are currently working on there was no external seeping visible but once we got into the brake cylinders and pulled the rubbers back we had oil pouring out of the cylinders.

Its a '69 in case you were wondering. In response to your questions about hours/miles I would say the tach has been replaced at some point. If I bought it I would pull the axels and check the brake cylinders for leaks; keep in mind if you pull the axels there are 3 seals per hub on the back...