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Yup I'm done with this thread. If you can't read this one or the 15+ other threads and make a decision then I don't know what else to tell you.

Well I discovered my engine is "making oil". Pulled the fuel shut off cover from the IP and kicked on the fuel pump. There was a nice steady drip coming from in there. I knew something wasn't right since it started taking FOREVER for my truck to crank. Anyways, where is a good source to...

2 Guns stay on my drilling rig and one stays at home. I can't tell you how many brands I have tried and how many I have taken back to the store. I have realized they all suck and its a roll of the dice when you buy one. I will literally buy 2 or 3 guns at once because I know at least 1 isn't...

15w-40 is used in the engine only. Nobody is arguing that one.

Just go to tractor supply and read the label. The blue bottle is standard motor oil. Red label is non-detergent. The 40wt is usually only sold in 2 gallon jugs not quarts.

Yes gl-5 for the axles and 40wt non detergent motor oil for the transmission and transfer case. If you have a tractor supply near by get the red labeled traveler 40wt oil. Its the non detergent variety. Then go grab a bucket of the traveler 75-90wt (I believe that's the weight) gear oil...

For the record, most grease guns made now days suck so bad. I have 3 grease guns you couldn't buy from me if you tried cause the darn things actually work.

It would work but not the best suited for the job. Gl-5 is much better suited for the axles. The current lube order in the TM's states GL-5 for everything. The previous owner of my truck had gl-5 140wt in the tranny and it didn't shift worth a crap. Switched to motor oil and it drops into...

In my boredom of this evening and the issue of synthetics vs. conventional on my mind I did a little research. Mobile1 has a very informative FAQ section on their website. After reading there and several other places they all claim that it is perfectly acceptable to put synthetic oil in an...

My truck is the same way. I ended up putting a plug in the switch. It kept leaking air and getting on my nerves. I'll remove it when I start interior work. The a3 wipers are a VAST improvement over air wipers.

The initial viscosity may be the same. However when the oil is at operating temperature they seem to behave differently. I won't proclaim to be an expert in engine oils. My personal experience with using both types of oils in everything from cars, boats, atv's, motorcycles, large trucks, and...

I would guess duals since he said dish out. A3 wheels would be stick clear out from under the bed. That being said, I have learned never to assume.

One more thing. When you have the MC apart look through the cap and make sure the 2 tiny holes in the bottom of the reservoir are open and clear.

If there is any pitting in the bore of the MC replace it. Well, deep pitting. I re-read your original post and I suggest you check all wheel cylinders while your at it. Since your truck was flooded it would be prudent to check the wheel bearings and replace the gear oil in everything. Since...

OK can you run an engine without a thermostat....yes. Will it overheat? Probably not. But, 2 things most of you are not taking into consideration. One is the MF has 3 different paths the coolant can flow and the thermostat dictates where that coolant goes. Two is diesels are NOT gas...

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=jatonka+spin+on+oil+filter+conversion Here ya go.

I've got a full set in decent shape. Also some wood bows and uprights that are usable.

Wrong on all accounts. Synthetic oils have smaller molecules and tend to be "runnier" or "slicker". Which sounds nice, but in reality with these old engines and the looser tolerances in them your better off with conventional oil. Conventional actually clings better than synthetics do. As far...

I would replace the flasher unit for starters. Those things are notorious for going bad. Luckily they aren't terribly expensive.

Just be sure whatever you use has an EP-additive in it. Which I believe the JD corn head has.