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Thank you. The reason I really want to avoid a second alternater if possible, is I plan on installing a/c at some point also. The less extra crap I mounted to the engine, the better.

I have the a3 wipers in my a2. 71 is the washer. Or in my case a dangling wire since I do not have a washer installed.

Can someone point me to what I should be looking for in a battery equalizer and how to wire one up? I have looked into it before but my head ended up swimming. Also where to purchase one would be helpful.

It really depends on how you single the rear out. You can get 6 11.00x20's and run them on stock wheels singled out or you can run all 10. With the 11.00x20 ndt's it is a direct swap on tires with the exception of needing the larger tubes. If you go with the Goodyear g177 11.00x20's they may...

Sorry that's my fault for not stating it correctly. I like the auber instruments (auberins.com) unit. Yes it is digital.

I wonder if you could retrofit that thing to use the duda diesel filter bags.....that would be awesome.

I like the aubriens (forgive me if I misspelled it) unit. It is available in 24v so no need to convert power. Also I believe you will surprised at the power increase from turning the fuel up.

If you are using DOT 5 brake fluid it can easily get impregnated with tiny air bubbles that will drive you mad while attempting to bleed the brakes. Let it sit a day and try again. Also be sure to bleed the brakes in the correct order. Air pack first, then right rear, left rear, right middle...

I'm voting air brake line also. That stuff is amazingly tough, heat resistant, fuel resistant, doesn't seem to dry rot.....you get the point. I just finished re-doing the return lines on my injectors and returns from the IP to the secondary fuel filters with the stuff.

I like the red sta-lube stuff in a tub myself. I don't see why red-n-tacky wouldn't work.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&cd=4&cad=rja&ved=0CDEQFjAD&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.lubrizol.com%2FDrivelineAdditives%2FAutomotiveGearOil%2FGL5.html&ei=JB6sUdniM8es4APEz4G4Bw&usg=AFQjCNGoKS-pUGw7YjZTXdCVjkGBXpD7AQ&bvm=bv.47244034,d.dmg Actually the lubrication order in the TM specifies...

I'm thinking of doing the second alternator myself. Granted I plan on having a pair of 8" subs and 4 6x9 components and according amplifiers. I don't believe there is a converter that can handle all of that.

How are you powering your stereo? A converter or second alternator? Or something else?

I like the dt466. Well the mechanical version. It is a solid engine and is cost effective to repair and maintain. Sure it doesn't produce huge HP numbers but it produces more than the MF. As far as transmission choice I'd rather have an allison auto with OD. Some may call me crazy but the...

There's nothing wrong with using gl-1 if you choose. I'm simply pointing out better and more available options.

Gl-1 is only suggested because of the fear that the sulfur additives in some gear oils will corrode the bronze synchro's in the transmission and transfer case. In all reality gl-1 is a primitive and inferior gear oil. Motor oil is a common lubricant in manual transmissions.

Not a problem. Looks like your going to have a nice truck when you get it finished up.

Play with the air pressure in the front. Might help with steering twitchiness. Looks good. I'm a big fan of singling deuces.

A pneumatic angle drill and a short drill bit works wonders on those things. In me and my buddies case lifting the rear end with a trackhoe helped shake her loose.

Synthetics I really don't suggest. They are a much thinner and slicker lubricant. I know it sounds strange for an oil to be too slick but the syncros don't seem to like it. Thanks on the compliment of the quote but I can't really claim it. I heard Jeramy Clarkston from the British version of...