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When brute force doesn't work....your not using enough of it. On a serious note though, the TM's and search function of this forum work wonders for basic maintenance questions.

If you have the a3 wipers you appreciate them more. Air wipers I do not like at all.

Pull the axle vent. I believe the threads are 3/8 npt. Get a barbed fitting and screw into hole. Then get some kind of tubing (I like DOT air brake line) and route vent to where ever you want it.

I think ams oil makes a couple different varieties of flowable grease. Call or email them and see what they say their greases can handle. Also, you can swing by your nearest John Deere tractor dealership and ask them what the corn head grease can handle.

I'm pretty sure my engine has a generic depot rebuild tag on it. I know exactly what engine I have. Just don't know who made it.

I'm going to guess that it is the seal around the shaft that protrudes through the frame that is leaking. The correct way to repair it would be to get a new seal and install it. Not an easy thing to do. Another thing I have heard mentioned is some members have replaced the gear oil with John...

I have a mystery engine in my truck. I know it is a ldt-465 1d. I also know it is a thick deck block. However the data plate on the side of my engine simply says "multifuel". My truck was depot overhauled in '91. Haven't checked to see if the engine has the same rebuild/ manufacture date.

I believe they do on the underside of the IP. Also check the steering box itself. They can leak pretty bad. My truck has oil running down the frame from the steering box. Not a big deal for me since I will be replacing it with M-35 toms power steering kit.

Get some degreaser or brake cleaner, something, and clean everything up good. That will make the leak easier to pin point. Also check the oil lines under the IP. If one of those goes on you its bad news real fast.

Pull the boot back on the master cylinder and check for fluid. If its dry its good. If there's fluid it needs rebuilt. Are you bleeding in the correct order?

Well the a3 isn't mine. Its a buddies truck. Its been a long project we started last November I believe. Finally on the down hill slope tho. Laying on paint is our current task at hand. Then its gonna be interior work, build winch bracket for the front...then that's pretty much it.

Without SERIOUS modification to the truck there simply isn't room for that big of a transmission. I would honestly question if a Eaton 6 speed would fit. Its the same reason the a3 has a non overdrive Allison. It was about the only heavy duty auto that would fit between the engine and...

I haven't had my stack coated just yet. I have been fixing small problems like flasher units, fuel return lines, gauges I can't read....in between working on the a3 bobber. Which will hopefully be unveiled within the next few weeks. Once that truck is done I'll start pulling my truck apart...

I hate to ask this question.....but you did check to see if your coolant was low first? Not trying to insult, you just gave very little information.

Is the puddle directly under that spot? Also I have experience with medium duty trucks with gas engines. Unless you plan on putting a blower on that 460 don't expect to be impressed with the power in such a heavy truck. On a positive note a v-8 is shorter than a I-6 so that frees up space for...

Your HH isn't leaking. Its the fuel shut off and that little cover just below it are leaking. Mine seeps oil in those same places. Don't loose sleep over it until its a steady drip.

Looks good dip. Glad you finally got the results you wanted.

The thermostat is also a 3 way valve in the MF.

I know the side steps will work. I'm 90% sure the front fenders will also.

Go to tractor supply and get the big 2 gallon jug of 40wt non detergent motor oil. Traveler will be the brand. Also I'll say this again, gl-1 is NOT suggested in the TM. Gl-5 is. If you really are fearful if the syncros corroding use motor oil. I don't suggest synthetics either. They are...