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This one covers the seals. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/5-ton-up/57099-5-ton-rear-axle-seal-fix-procedure.html

auaauaauaauaauaauaauaauaauaaua (Did you all know your only allowed to post 10 smileys in one post)

It grinds in Neutral because there is nothing holding the mainshaft from spinning. With the transfer case in N the brakes are physicaly disconected from the drive shaft into the rear of the case, so no holding power there. However with the motor running, spinning the torque coverter and no...

If you hate the look of the truck with flipped hubs from the side, wait till you see what it looks like from the rear with un-flipped hubs and single tires. I bet you wont like it. It looks even worse.

Unless you put a tag on it and drive it down a public road I dont think you have to worry about running dyed fuel. :driver:

Recovery4x4 nailed it. Everything on it says A2 with an A3 axle. (wider axle, pushing the wheels out from under the wheelwell/fender and has a raised center section for better ground clearance)

Bring a camera. Site requirement that you document your recovery with photos. :p

Yes it is a recent change. Right now I go back and read thru the rules about once or twice a month. ( and I still get things wrong )

I live close enough to Ft Riley I can hear when they are firing the M1 tanks and that sweet rythmic 50 cal. I love going to sleep to the sweet sound of freedom.

No B.O. or slave cable on those. I too drove a few of those while in the USAF, always called them a 6-pack.

I read Dave Kay's post yesterday and didnt think it sounded condecending. Just say "thanks but I already picked up the truck" How hard is that?

I'm not so sure on that one porkysplace. I know the chunk in the rockwell axle can be spun 180* and run that way in rock crawlers and never heard of anyone stripping the gears. I know RC's arent running anywhere near the weight of a deuce or 5ton. Edit: I dont know what I was thinking. When...

Sorry gimpyrobb, I was thinking putting the thimble on first then the wheel then the lugnut. (like some have been doing on the fronts). You are correct, wheel then budd nut will work just fine. Gimp, how many times have you had someone (non-MV owner) ask you how your wheels stay on with out a...

Gimp is right. Take the washer off, dont use the thimble (budd nut) and get the same lugnut that is used on the front.

Did you bleed the airpack first, before bleeding the wheel cylinders?

How much were you asking? If you just want to get out what you go in them they should sell pretty easily. (unless you paid to much to begin with)

I'm betting he selling to the hot-rod/street-rod crowd. The ones with deep pockets

Treessw, Which wheels are you talking about? 5ton combat wheels will work with out any mods. If your going with the HEMMT wheels then you should use longer studs on the fronts.

The funny part of this thread is Im sitting here thinking of going the exact opposite direction. I have an M818 and I know where there are 4 complete 5ton dump beds, hoist, pump, res. and all.

This morning I went out just to see what I coould find. I found out the bolts holding the 5th wheel to the spacer plate are threaded into the spacer plate. They do not go all the way through the frame. I would guess that would be the reason for the spacer, so there wouldnt be any more hole in...