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That is a nightmare. My only advice is to find the other end of the cut wire and connect one probe of your ohmmeter to it and check each cut wire for continuity. One wire will end up at the fuel tank sender, one at the oil pressure sender, and one at the temperature sender. One will have +24...

Welcome! Awesome 5/4! Michelins look good on it! Tornado power still?

Cool, your truck is a 1966, listed on page 21 of the PDF.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/carnacs-historical-vin-info-thread.193055/page-4 See post 63. If you can find your truck in the list, that means it was a US Army truck in service into the 1990s. Sorry no unit IDs were stored in the database.

Better check the date codes on the 16.00s before you send a driver. If they are ancient, a blowout is likely. Suggest having it hauled. The wheels are 20” with a very untypical bolt circle.

SEEs "KINDA" meet the requirements for machinery plates in TX. No title on machinery. MIGHT be an avenue to go down if all else fails. Personally I would probably consider buying a SEE with a bill of sale and machinery plates.

Oh and by being listed in the TEDB database, your truck was used by the US Army.

Your truck is a 1968. It shows up in the historical database, see post 4, M54A2WW file, page 34: Find "5F4585" https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/carnacs-historical-vin-info-thread.193055/ No unit data is given unfortunately.

The red circled device is the pop off valve also called the pressure relief valve. It's purpose is to vent if the unloader fails to shut off the compressor and it runs away. It should vent at probably 190 PSI. If it's venting all the time, work it loose with some WD-40 so it isn't stuck open.

If you found stamped numbers that should be golden. It is hopeless to get a revised sf97 if you are not the auction buyer.

The mistake was made when someone accepted an incorrectly filled out SF97. Now it’s a nightmare. There is almost no way to title it other than bonded.

No idea on the button, but the 2 cylinder compressor should make air until the unloader trips out at around 150 psi. Then the engine and compressor just runs until the pressure drops to say 90, at which time the unloader trips again and air is made.

See, now they will have to pull it back off and hillbilly wizard will have to send it back to their rebuilder for warranty work. Next time skip the middle man and have a highly reputable rebuilder reman your pump.

Here is what I did, see post 3: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/class-4-trailer-hitch-m1008.44007/#post-490884

Or just pull the hubs with drums attached and combine brake overhaul with wheel bearing repack.

A nightmare you will have bringing this truck back to life is the fuel pickup/sender assy. It will be rusted and full of holes. Suggest pulling the tank and going through the fuel system completely.

Nice rig! Looks like a wrecker push bumper on there. Yeah 16.5 tires are a huge issue. I am running Transforce 9.5R16.5s by Firestone. About all that is available in a name brand tire.

Simplest solution might be to print out a JIC fitting ID chart and back into the hose configurations you need. Then head over to your local hydraulic hose shop.

Are your bulbs burned out? Very common issue.

100% for sure it's USMC. Fording control, rear lifting brackets and of course the paper clips confirm the data plate. Bed top rails look like the chain gang was not gentle with whatever they were doing.