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Start by performing the correct tests to determine if you even have a blown head gasket. it’s possible you have blowby in the engine and mistook, that does not mean you have blown HG. ive seen about 99% of the time the over heating was due to the fan not engaging and the operator not paying...

The 6.2-6.5 is so terrible they decided to use it for 39 years and continue to make it today… Comparing 40yr old diesel technology to modern day is a lesson in futility.

Geared hubs are 2:1 IIRC

There is a lot going on right now in the HMMWV world at AMG, The M83-P2 gear was Mfg discontinued at Sheppard, so AMG is scrambling to find either an alternative or new Mfg’er. Sheppard is now using Weller Truck as sole Distributor for all warranty and repairs, no longer can you go Factory...

Yep…

First off, trucks have more than 4 miles from the factory, so the idea it had 4 miles after 11yrs is laughable, anyone in this hobby for more than a few years and the way the Govt resets trucks knows better than to believe military speedometer. I bid on that truck, but found out I was bidding...

its not a matter of if something will break, just when…the most common is differential stuff, especially stub Axles, a lot of this also has to do with the tune, make it dump 700ft lbs and 1k of HP and you got issues. 99.9% of all folks pay a shop for this conversion, that’s why I stated as...

Dmax conversions are $50-75k….anyone who says thats crazy has just never done one, the only way to keep costs down is to do it your self And source your own parts. Don’t believe me…make the calls to Mtn Machine, Predator etc…and when they quote you? Add another $15-20k on it, especially if it’s...

1980’s technology in the chassis and drivetrain, your going to find out real quick how much a modern high HP and High torque power train will Eat up driveline components. if you venture into the 300k SN range, your not gaining much over the 258k SN range except the brakes, geared fan drive and...

You need 2 pieces, the support itself which is not side specific and the covers that are side and model truck specifi.

evaporator needs to drain appropriately via the drain holes in the sump

my suggestion is to make the truck run with an OEM engine and go from there…a Dmax conversion is not for feint of heart or light wallet….it’s really just depends on what your ultimate goals are for the truck. as far as Diffs go…best diff solution is 2.73 from an A2 truck. What SN is that Truck...

i fabricated this mount for the truck

You can Find rad stack type condensor units like the H1 uses, or install a fender mounted condenser as ive been doing

Advanced is towards the drivers side, retarded towards pass side..l retarded timing will be quieter , advanced will be louder especially on cold start.. the starting point is dead center…and frankly, is where all trucks are direct from the factory.

The early serpentine plate blocks the oil filler tube, it’s a PITA to remove as opposed to the later serpentine setup. remove the timing gear cover stud bolts…makes it easier to remove

New hood “old style” new radiator “old style” new front radiator support “old style” new fan shroud ”A0-A2” possibly new “old style“ Trans/oil cooler assy *cannot be done to REV”

Bad turbo charger clogged Catalytic converter bad turbo boost sensor vaccum pump inop or vacuum line to waste gate disconnected last 2 are common on H1, first 2 are hmmwv issues….

It’s called marketing….there are still acres of trucks in Yermo. Yes, there are many many non-runners, I’ve purchased many of them and they are here at the shop, most are now running, but it’s a crap shoot, I don’t recommend buying a NR unless you have the time and resources to put it back...

Yes, but it can be a bit of PITA to get the sock on, I align it correctly on the pickup tube and push it on till it will stay, then hit it flatly with a mallet to seat it permanently, you will need to hold the pickup tube tightly in your hand close to the end where the sock goes on so you don’t...