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Plenty of stock suspension parts around, someone probably wants the complete Rod Hall suspension.
your lower control arms will need to be replaced as well.
I have alot Of these parts in stock
again…No, that’s not the case, you can have major issues and no lamp, and only flashing DTC’s reveals the issue.
but hey…working on them 7 days a weeks, wudda I know.
All the red dot brackets come off that hold the compressor on the serp plate, the grooved idler is added as part of the red dot kit, it’s replaced with a smooth.
I install and have been installing the old manual valve on all my trucks, i use the AC only, could care less about the heater, if I need it, I can open the hood and move the lever. This option may not work for those in colder climates.
I do a fuel filter about every 2 days…never have I had to pressure the tank, hook up some gadget or what ever.
Just install a piece of 1/4in hose on the fuel filter outlet and place in a jar, crank the truck till fuel flows into the jar…hook the hose back up to the injection pump and fire it up.
thats called a slam hatch assy, the smaller pieces you seek are plastic, doubt you will find them, definitely could be
3D printed. Recently hundreds of the brackets were sold on GovPlanet
Never use spring spacers on HMMWV suspension…this has been talked about before.
Body lift and tires…spring spacers will f**k up you HS’s and BJ’s.
I see this constantly in the shop and it’s a mess..
you must have a refrigerant recovery machine to recover the R134....
There is no way to charge your AC with the engine off, your compressor must be running and idle set at 1500rpm
they aren’t press fit, they are held on with blue locktite, that version has no set screw.
there are several variants based on what Glass is installed and in what truck. I remove probably a set every other day, but on that version, it’s 50/50 you get them off without destroying the pivot…better...
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