Search results

I looked at the one I have the center cap is missing on the yoke. They have no cap when they are broached out and the splines are cut into the yoke. The shaft was compressed that hard it pressed the cap from the yoke. I will just keep it. If you want a ew one the Spicer dealer has them.

I should have upped the wager I placed on my diagnosis. But glad to hear you got it. That thing on the bottom of your posts. About the big hammer. I think it is time to get rid of the hammer and put silk gloves on and be more surgical. I seldom need to hammer things or force them into place...

You need a dental mirror or such a devise to help you look around corners. I would pull oil in it and pull all 8 glow plugs. I would spray WD 40 or something similar into the hole and crank and look. It is there. Report back. Removing the glow plugs helps the starter turn faster and is easier on...

I you can zoom in on these heads they have the same pock marks from corrosion. These came off a 13K motor that sat with no hood. I had them machined and everything gone over on them. They are back on my M1008 project. I am a firm believer in replacing the original head gaskets at this point in...

Maybe. But if it is in the bore it could be a bit tight. I think a magnet would pull it out. Worth a look see and an easy try.

You need to grind down a 13 MM open end wrench. Remember I said about a thin 13mm and a thin 15mm? Hold that nut and crank it out. It is just a vacuum line. a hose will fix it. Or a new piece of metal line. You can do it.

NOT Slacking. Just working hard at about a dozen NON CUCV related projects at once. The M1008 cargo bed is all ready for primer. Getting real close to getting the bed edged and installed back on the chassis. Mean while the neighbor kid is in the process of destroying a perfectly good M1028 that...

While I was out in monsoon weather today. I took a look see at a 6.2 diesel CUCV engine I had for parts. i looked up in the push rod bore. I am convinced it is still stuck in the hole. The mud daubers had their way with this block. And it looks like a fly chose it as his final resting place...

Well, I cant chance a 1/2 ton. I hate restrictions! That's why I have a trailer.It is easier to load and unload and I can load it with a loader or forklift and never put a dent or scratch in the new truck. Better yet the registration tags are $12. a year. A 1 ton truck I was paying $150+ a...

As a rule I change my CUCV belts in the parking lot of the auto parts store. I strive to get belts that are as tight as possible to get on the pulleys and adjust from there. If you follow the guidelines on the belts they are worn out after a few belt squeals. I also use a wrench if I have to to...

That looks like water damage to me. Like it had water sitting in it and rusted. Maybe a leaking head gasket at that cylinder. Just thinking out loud. Lower left looks like the compression seal was leaking and allowing water to seep in. Low mileage means it sat a lot and had time to corrode.

You need a front slip joint for an M1008 rear drive shaft. Do you want new or used. I have used and I have a Spicer dealer about 20 miles away. But if you want a used one I will cut it off a dented driveshaft (both ends). PM me for details. I can do that and you can get the drive shaft re-tubed...

I would tend to think that the broken piece would still be up in the hole. Have you looked up that hole? Use a mirror. I have heard of these rods breaking when someone changed a fuel pump but fail to see how. That may explain why some people say they had such a hard time getting a new fuel pump...

$80K. NOT. My new trucks are real work trucks. I order them and they have crank windows. I get a Chevrolet 4WD, 8 ft bed, posi-traction rear , towing package, AC, trailer brakes, skid plate package no chrome. Everything as HD as a 1/2 ton can get and call it a day. About $30K. payed out less...

I am done with fixing my daily driver. I just trade it every 5 years and call it fixed. Worked well the past 14 years. Never put tires, battery, brakes, or anything on them. Took care of them and got a good price for the trade. Next year is the next cycle. 30 years apart. 1984 - 2014. What a change.

The average vehicle has 10 to 11 year life span. So it has lived 3 life spans. Rust and wear out are inevitable. I see no way to keep it from being recalled to dirt as a daily driver in any snow/salt state. That is bound to happen no matter how well you take care of it. I have seen 2013...

I changed many rear main seals on CUCV's I never had to jack the engine up. I did support the frame so the axle hung a bit lower. But I never removed any motor mount bolts. Just saying. I want to keep it simple. Do as you wish. With all this work I would have pulled the engine. And if you are...

Don't turn the engine over with NO OIL in it. That will do more harm then good. Just drain it good and refill it with a new filter. Hopefully the head gasket problem is solved. That coolant could have gotten in during the head gasket changing. Could have. Lets hope. I am an optimist. Give it a...

I was just referring to guys saying they were loose. I did hit one and it was very tight. It was in an accident and the 6.2 was scrap. Basically the entire CUCV & driveline was scrap. Except the 14 bolt rear axle. I have pictures but they are 35mm. I'm old. Have a great day.

I like the picture of the harmonic balancer. I would like you to test something. Put that balancer in a vise or block it and see how hard that is to knock that ring off. I tried. It took great effort. I see cracks like that on almost every engine I pull. But try the hammer test. That thing is on...