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Excellent work! for fuel treatment you can really use just about anything available locally. Lots of guys also use PRI-D which is for me is a mail order item. Diesel 911 , Power Service Diesel supplement and Howes Diesel Treatment are all usually stocked locally as well as a hand full of other...

It's not a problem to ask for help, we're all here to assist anyone we can. It sounds like maybe it's just a matter of becoming familiar with how the forum works. Every machine / model is different, so you have to keep an eye on the title of the post you are replying to to know which series...

It comes apart all the way down to individual components. There is no info in the TM because it is a throw away part, but I had found it on you tube back when I needed it. Pay very close attention to the markings to align when you reassemble. Search Bosch PFR injection pump for detailed...

Ok, so what am I missing here??? You are looking at a thread about an MEP-802 preheater test and then picking at Guy's response, saying that the referenced 802 TM isn't listed in the MEP-016 TM section??? Of course it's not, but luckily it's right where it should be!

Don't know of a document for what you need, but I do have a flywheel on the shelf. Worst case I could measure it for you and give you the dimensions.

Agreed. If the price is right and you can work on it yourself, go for it. You essentially have a new engine and there is a single $10 moving part ( end bearing ) in the gen head itself. Other than that it's all electronics and pretty easily trouble shot and repaired. Worst possible case you need...

Small correction above, when you switch to Aux. you are turning on the Aux pump ( unless the tank is nearly full ) the Aux. pump, if not hooked to a fuel source will run very FAST because it's just sucking air. Now, back to the original problem with it lacking power, does the problem seem worse...

looking good! There's nothing quite like engine parts, fresh from the machine shop! A quick word of caution, if you haven't already done so.... I would suggest taking that oil pressure relief tube apart and cleaning it and make sure it is working correctly. If that thing is stuck closed you will...

The shims under the metering pumps are used to set the timing of the pumps as well as seal the pump to the block. Typically you will find a shim pack of 2 or 3 ( black or green ) plastic shins under each pump, ranging in thickness from .003" to .010" each. If there are no shims at all, that...

Not sure if this helps at all, but I did a project with the engine from an 002 a couple years ago and I believe the bellhousing on the 002 / 003 was an SAE #3 The attached dimensions might help you a little. https://www.sbmar.com/articles/understanding-bellhousing-and-flywheel-measurements/

Yup, keep in mind static battery voltage means virtually nothing at all. The only real test for a battery is a load test. Old batteries will often hold a surface charge that makes them appear good, but the slightest load and that surface charge becomes nearly ZERO, but then immediately returns...

A2 is your voltage regulator board. CR2 on the voltage regulator is NOT what you are looking for. I'm not familiar with the CR2 diode, but have you tried looking on the back side of A1 to see if it is soldered across 2 terminals on the back? I also notice the relay is unscrewed from A1, have you...

It depends which pump you have but anything in the >5 psi. should be enough. You don't need a lot of pressure, but that machine will not without at least some pressure from the pump.

I have used the Caswell plating epoxy tank sealer exclusively on a good 8-10 MEP tanks with 100% success. I have plugged everything from pin holes to stuff you can stick a pencil through and have a good 8+ years of use on some of the tanks with no signs of failure! Sounds like you only have a...

Also check the starter disconnect switch located just to the right of the oil filter. If the contacts aren't closed the machine won't crank. It's the small cover held on by a wing nut, just to the right of the oil filter. This is the switch that disconnects the starter once the machine is...

Oh, I see... you bought new bushings to put in your existing rods. I had purchased a new piston and a new rod. I had an 803 that probably got hydrolocked at some point and 1 of the rods was tweaked a little bit. It ran fine but smoked at start up for 30 seconds. Just the little bend it had was...

Did it leak right away? or did it start leaking a few days / week after you installed it? You should not have to use any silicone or anything on it. If you purchased a cheap $5 Chloroprene well nut and not a Buna or Viton one, diesel fuel can destroy it in a matter of days. If you got the good...

Strange.... I have bought both piston / pins and connecting rods from Mayi Diesel on the big auction site and didn't have to ream the rod bushing. Everything went right together easily. Where did you end up getting the rod from? If by chance you end up having any kind of issue getting your rod...

Is the rack moving freely? If the rack is stuck in the "OFF" position you will not get any fuel through the metering pumps. If the pin that engages the rack is stuck on either one of the pumps, it will hold the rack in the off position. If you have 1 pump out now, stick your finger down the hole...

The fuse holder should push in and turn to the right a little bit and lock in place. The cap should have a couple little tabs sticking out of the sides that twist and lock into the body of the fuse holder. It should not come out at all unless you push it in and turn it counterclockwise again.