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The ones you just posted are the only TMs I have related to it. Not that concerned at the moment, my only generator is an MEP-802 so not like I have an actual use for it right now. Mostly I bought it because for that price, I got a nice set of new ground rods for cheap, with the box thrown in.

How are you verifying this temp? The inside gauges are notoriously inaccurate, so if that's all you're looking at you need to get a laser temp to verify. Plus you said you just installed a new thermostat. I'd go back, verify with a laser thermometer on the coolant hose what the temp is...

Thanks for the manuals. I actually just picked up one of these power distribution boxes 2 weeks ago. It looks like it's never been used, and had the ground rods and plastic wrench with it as well. According to the sticker from govplanet, the government paid nearly $34k for these things.

Not everyone requires sealant. The main reason for the sealant is that not every piece of glass with gasket forms a leakproof seal when installed. I know mine had a lot of water coming in from the center pillar (lots of big bubbles when driving at any speed, and water sloshing back and forth)...

For sealant I like Dap Ultra Clear, can be found at home depot. Not a silicone sealant, and comes off easily enough if you ever have to remove and redo the seal. https://www.dap.com/products-projects/product-categories/caulks-sealants/specialty/clear/

Borrowed from XM381.com Depending on what trailer you have/what type of cable (many smaller trailers are only 7 wires instead of the 12) there is no reason why you can't do whatever wiring changes you want to. The only real issue with taking power from a blackout circuit is if it gets hooked...

Yeah, the 200 amp has a large strap (3/8"x1" steel bracket) that goes to the exhaust stud. It was the bracket bolt behind the power steering pump that can only be seen directly up from the bottom that was the loose one and backed out a couple millimeters. Still, there wasn't a whole lot of...

So a month or three ago my serp belt was starting to squeal, riding up on the front lip of the fan pulley. I spaced the power steering pump back slightly to make it stop. Now power steering pump is noisy, so I probably screwed it up with that slight side load (or it was just failing anyway, who...

Their website shows a hard door that looks like the soft doors, but has an RV type sliding window. Handle is similar though (but not exact). Could be some other manufacturer though.

I know Amtech, who makes those hard tops, has their own version of the hard door, though I've never seen one before. From how perfectly it fits with the top that would be my guess.

That portion of the alignment is the hard part. I took my truck to Les Schwab and they did all the toe adjustments in about 1 hour on their rack. After the shims are removed you'll want the alignment, just have them use the same specs as an H1 from the late 90's.

By turning in you mean the front are closer together than the rear, or that the bottom of the tire is closer together than the top? If front closer than rear that's an alignment adjustment (toe in), relatively simple to adjust, it should have very slight toe out. If it's the camber adjustment...

Yeah, without anything in the system it won't do anything, but as soon as you start charging it it should show the green light on the diagnostic module and start working. I don't have a scale so I just kept filling mine until it stopped cycling very quickly, and the sight glass on the...

Usually they are referred to as "R134a adapter" or "R134a quick coupler" and the "standard charging port" you are referring to is for R12, pretty much everything newer uses this type of fitting, so this would be a current standard charging port. Sometimes when technology changes was is...

Yes, those are the two ports. they are all you need to charge the system. Standard R134a hookups. You will want to go over the entire system and make sure all the fittings are snug. Not too tight, because they are o-ring seals. My truck had the MAK (Marine Armor Kit) removed from it...

Only if they are bad. They aren't all that expensive though, so it's not a bad idea.

Yes, that is the same location as mine for the high side port, low side port will be lower down under the cover, facing forward. Remove the cover then compare to the pic I posted earlier.

Can you post pictures of your evaporator from both sides and the receiver/dryer for us? There is no way that a Red Dot system does not have industry standard charging ports unless someone has modified it.

the hookups should be on the evaporator, not the dryer. Standard R134A hookups. Remove the driver's side cover plate to see them easily. Low side is at the bottom facing forward, high side is a little above and behind it facing straight out. Picture taken from my thread below...

The M1123 is just the Marine's heavy spec M998A2 (or the M1097A2 which is the Army heavy spec M998A2) without the airlift bumper, so should be the same.