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I've checked over the cables, and can't find any issues with any of them. Added question, does the smart start or control box or whatever it is also give a signal to the regulator to start charging, or is the generator/regulator completely independent of the start control box?

So I have a keyed battery disconnect. Sometimes when I start the HMMWV (m1123) the generator shows like it's about to start charging, it goes slightly into the green between glow plug pulses, but then drops back to yellow and stays there. If I turn off the engine, tap on the regulator a little...

Running to the negative terminal will always be the best connection, but there is no real reason why you can't run to any of the normal ground locations on the truck, as they all go to the battery negative eventually. Straight to battery eliminates possible bad connections if you go to the body...

if you haven't changed the bulbs over to 12V or LED multi-voltage, then just wiring it up as is for 12V the lights will be extremely dim. The two LED circuit boards in the lights are the blackout lights. basically just dim lights to let others that are very close to you know when you are...

I suppose that is understandable, as it allows for any work necessary in the future to be done less expensively if the system needs the refrigerant changed out/recharged again. So how about R422b then? It's not that much more expensive than the 407c is, but doesn't require you to change out...

the bulbs use standard base types, so no reason you can't do the 12V version. I've done it and I know others have put multi-voltage bulbs in so it can run off either 12 or 24V depending on what's pulling it. I can't confirm on the brakes, but pretty sure without air they aren't locked to chock...

R-22 is still readily available, so I'm not sure why you would have to convert it.

Yup, you can go the standardly available block warmers for the GM 6.2/6.5 diesel, or just get a magnetic oil pan warmer and slap it on there. Won't be as effective as the block warmers, but having flowing oil is the most important part when cranking over in the cold. As long as the batteries...

You might look at places that do tarps for semi trucks. What you want might be a little smaller than they are used to, and I don't know if they will do the clear windows or not, but those prices you're getting seem a little steep when something like a lumber tarp 24'x27' is around $300. Just...

the 200A1 does NOT use HMMWV tires. It uses much larger tires, I believe they match (or at least sometimes match) the duals for a 5 ton or similar truck. At minimum they are semi tires in dual configuration. I've seen one MEP 804 series on an HMMWV trailer (the M1102 chassis I believe...

I have a 12V circuit going to my 7 pin RV trailer plug (30 amp fused), but that's the only thing there. I do have my dash camera hardwired to the batteries, bypassing the battery disconnect completely, but it doesn't ground anywhere in the truck so a non-issue.

I have a 4 speed truck with a couple additional 12V loads. Doing just a positive disconnect it won't kill those loads. The other downside I see with this is if the cable gets damaged or something shorts out in the switch then you'll have the positive cable going to ground. Not a likely...

It does that for me as well. I can only assume there is some stored power in a capacitor or something that doesn't drain away very quickly until a load is applied.

Here is the comparison between the two gen types. The Generac you'd hear run during it's test cycle every week/2 weeks/monthly (however you have it set up) it would come on automatically when needed, transfer automatically, etc. The fuel supply is much harder to refill in case of emergency...

for the 17k on that size tank, it really depends on how the tank is installed and how cold it gets where you are. Propane turns to vapor inside the tank, then that vapor is what's drawn off to be burned. If the propane level is low or the temp is too low, then the propane might not be able to...

none of these should be very high amperage. My understanding of gauges and senders is voltage flows through the sender, and the gauge just measures how much voltage drop there is due to resistance, and shows it as an easy to identify value. I could be wrong, but last time I looked at mine the...

looks kind of like one of these AN/TPQ-36(V)7 Firefinder Radar the one above is m103 chassis from the look of it, but they put them on the m116 as well. Though that trailer might be from an earlier version of it, as the info I see mostly says it was the M116A2E1 chassis

24V nominal. just like civi vehicles are mostly 12V nominal.

For those three wires one is ground, one is live, and one is a switched ground. They should have 12V power to them. Going by wire number (which you won't have, but Generac always does the same numbers) Wire 0 is ground. Wire 15B is 12V, and should always have power. Wire 23 is the switched...

This type does NOT switch neutrals. It's basic operation is 2 double pole breakers directly across from each other in the panel next to the rotary switch. Power is fed to the lower portion of the panel through those breakers, with only one breaker being engaged at a time.