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Stonepicker1 is close. S Fla (real far south) to Barstow and back!
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?73443-CUCV-II-Road-trip-FL-to-CA-2-668-miles&highlight=
The process requires that you get a home address. I've not once heard of Battle Creek sending one to a PO Box. Heck, a friend was trying to buy transmissions and they cancelled the sale advising him that his middle name was mispelled. Apparently his given middle name was not in alignment with...
These are the perfect cabs for a deuce crew cab conversion. The width of the front of the cab is super close to the width of the rear of a deuce cab. Doing a crew cab this way would make a much roomier back seat.
When deuces went up to $1000 I didn't think they would ever sell another one. I was so wrong. I remember the first $1000 deuce I bought, I felt violated paying that much. Now a thousand dollar deuce is a bargain. Bargain deuces used to be $2-300 with many residue trucks selling for around $100.
What I was saying is keep your existing driveshaft and the ujoint you have. Remove the yoke from your old rear axle and place it on your new rear axle. Your existing drivehshaft did work with the removed rear axle, correct?
Lucky for you that you have access to Steel Soldiers. Between now and when someone with MEP skills comes along here's a link to the manuals you previously lacked access to!
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?77624-TM-s-for-Generators
I found a 14 bolt FF on CL for $80. Had 4.10 gears. Prior to that I bought a 14B SF and 10B front both with 410s for $150. I know you will never get the 3.42 in the FF but you might be able to source a 3.73 front and rear on the cheap. I try to buy my 14B FFs open so adding a locking diff...
Most HMMWVs have an approach angle of 69 degrees. I have no expectation that this vehicle will climb that steep of a grade unless is was paved or poured concrete. Here is a copy of FM20-22
I think comparing approach angles with the ability to actually climb that grade is comparing apples to oranges. FM 20-22 uses this as a guide when calculating a mud recovery. Mud up to the hubs requires roughly double the vehicle weight for recovery and mired to the top of the fenders is triple...
I'm not certain about this sleeve you are referring to. Perhaps I just can't see. Pulling the valve train up would be faster than trying to whittle the nut off with a dremel.
Bad news, you can run your exhaust to the next county and you will still be faced with turning the vehicle off in drivethroughs. The 6.2 is louder from under the hood than the exhaust. Maybe replace the engine with a gasser?
I would be uncomfortable driving the truck knowing that the truck had been driven through water and not serviced immediately. I would go through everything for peace of mind. As far as brake fluid, remove some and drop it in a cup of water. If it mixes it is NOT DOT 5.
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