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https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?2061-Battery-cutoff-switch

A great time to to these little projects such as the pyro. If you are bored you can service the air compressor! Let me know if you want me to come up with other odd jobs for you! :-)

Urantian, I would AT LEAST install a battery disconnect ASAP, even if you do not plan to hunt for the problem (which, as you explain, may or may not really exist). That way, you can make your truck electrically safe. The last thing you want is two 24V batteries setting your truck alight and burn...

This is THE failure mode for the hydraulic brake light switch. Leave it plugged on the hydraulic side and replace with an air pressure operated brake light switch, similar to the upgrade the military did. Less failure-prone, safer and easy to change if need be without having to bleed the brakes...

Took Queen Lola for an after-work spin. Absolutely nothing to report, other than a fun, relaxing drive on rural roads and some gravel in beautiful Fall weather. No hiccups, no fuel starvation. I do have a question though. How hot should power steering fluid get? Mine gets darn hot - you do not...

That was my Deuce and what Floridianson said.

You should be able to turn both wheels when both are off the ground, as you describe. The flange holds the outer end of the half shaft (driveshaft) and forces it to turn together with the wheel hub. Did the half shaft slide into the differential without issue? I am trying to visualize how it...

Note that not all dog bones can be removed effortlessly. At your own risk! Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Yup, I hear ya! There is apprehension when you first crank it over and it catches.....then relief when it settles into a smooth idle....followed by more apprehension of "but will it STAY together?". For me, that did not go away for many, many drives to follow. I am good now. It has been two...

Any progress on this? Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

I used "the Google" and it suggests something like this: https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Controller/Hayes/HA100400C.html

See. what you do not have cannot break! You just introduced another failure point into your truck! And who needs heat. Wimps.

Honestly, I would use this as an excuse to go to your supply place of choice and get a length of cable and ends and make new battery cables. You can make a sleeve out of a rubber hose where it passes through the sheet metal opening as well. Plus, you know it is new and done right.

What Gringeltaube said. There have been enough reports of the M35A3 tires blowing after re-inflation, often while driving, to consider this a serious issue if the truck has been sitting on one or more deflated tires for a long time. I would have zero confidence in these tires, other than for...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?42567-Master-Cylinder-Vent-Line-vs-Breather Maybe post #9 helps with the mysterious copper line. Your engine bay needs a good washing. Then run the truck and check for leaks. It is hard to tell when there are years of gunk in there. I would plan on...

Update: - primary and secondary filter changed. Both had gunk in them. - in-tank fuel hose changed. The in-tank hose looked ok but was in fact shedding its outer layer. The hardened plastic shreds went through the in-tank pump and ended up in the primary filter. The filter was likely clogging...

Nice job says the world's worst welder. Sent from my SM-G950W using Tapatalk

Sweet....6 drive motors and plenty of space to put batteries.....

Have you ever checked your trunnion bearings? Jack rear of the truck up by the frame until the leaf springs are completely relaxed, remove trunnion cap and check bushing/bearing. Good time to grease it after modding the cap with a grease zerk for easier greasing. There is a bit of disagreement...

WHAT?? I CAN'T HEAR YOU! I think it's a 4-53? That is 212 ci (3.5 l) and it makes 140 hp and a neck-snapping 282 ft-lbs of torque.