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Yes, look at the rivet lines for example, not the same rivet lines as production. The rockers have what appears to be more than double the amount of rivets compared to production

there is “actual“ and than there is “indicated” as we say in the aviation world. if Your engagement is at 230, you should be replacing your thermostatic switch and or temp gauge. At my shop, every truck that comes in “several weekly” from Barstow, get a road test, the No.1 test is the fan...

I few more issues than cost…several of these are not ideal IMO. 1. The cost of the waterless coolant is much higher. If you were to use a standard coolant or antifreeze in your vehicle, then the product cost would be around $20 per gallon. The cost of the waterless coolant from Evans, which is...

If it’s so great, why aren’t the manufacturers using it? I’ve been a diesel mechanic for over 30yrs, not a gimmick fan.

That’s an additional ground stud, you will find it wired with a massive ground cable in the 400amp equipped trucks, it runs to the 400amp generator ground stud. Its just a stud on a 200amp truck. I guess AMG a figured out that while they added a bunch of positive tie point, they forgot they...

230 is a bit high…220 is where you want to be.

OEM is 15psi cap, stay away from gimmicks that say you don’t need hose clamps and caps.

Need header and rocker armor, as well as correct mounting blocks to install flat doors..

IMO the Luverne BG offer the best protection as it’s a sturdy piece of steel, all the rest are flimsy garbage. not sure why the military ceased buying them, perhaps because they are too heavy? outside of mounting them an M998 or standard bumper plate, you would need to do some fabrication work...

that linkage is moved via the fuel cutoff solenoid, it sticks due to old fuel or as I’ve had happen far to often, algae in the fuel, if algae, you must kill it at the source as well as everywhere down stream from the source, basically start at the fuel tank.

the fuel filter is not busted…that’s how they are right out of the box, doesn’t affect function.

The M1165A1 REV’s didn’t sit like the M1123’s, these trucks were in service only a few years ago. I’ve found no contamination in the fuel, in fact, of all the REV’s I own “4” and have had come through the shop,they all have had JP8 in the tank. Your issue is fuel starvation…you need to go...

Your keyed switch is wired wrong or failed, I woult immediately remove it and install an OEM switch

No, the aluminum roof is standard width, the turret holes is larger until the “slewing ring” is installed into the hole that allows the bearing to be mounted into it.

Circuit breakers for Air conditioning condensers.

yes, a hmmwv is hmmwv, any hmmwv part will fit, as long as you have all the correct parts that go with a alum roof, but than you have to figure out what to do with rear C pillar support Area, the C-pillar is different. you can install a new style turret into an older Slantback roof and support...

It wouldn’t be cheaper, but parts are more more plentiful and can be ordered as it’s current production parts. the 11XX sill uses a “turret support” just not like the 10 series trucks…that 11 series support has to be used in an 11 series aluminum roof.

$1500 roof support? $2500 roof support? Yea…that boat sailed many many months and years ago, $4k? Better jump on it…it is what it is, even the turret parts have dried up for the A2 trucks, many many of the guys I source parts through and normally have the hard to find stuff have commented in the...

well, it’s certainly more than a couple hundred dollars, that’s for damn sure.

ALWAYS a use the rear battery to pull 12v, same as what the factory does. follow best practices as any electrical wiring in automobiles such as install fuse Inline on positive as close the power source as possible, use correct gauge wiring, use common sense on wire routing, protect wires with...