Search results

Replace the fuel tank, install new sock and all gaskets…

trucks been sitting in the desert for 10yrs, so that’s pretty much anyone needs to know…but yes, when in doubt, change it.

refer to the lube order…fluids are changed in the military on Time, hours or miles.

a step drill bit and plastic plug, same as what the Mfg uses…

all A2 trucks have the newer diff hangar brackets that allow seal removal, even the older version that didn’t, it was still possible to remove without dropping the diff, do it all the time. It just appears your outp seal is leakin, absolutely no reason to remove let alone rebuild the diff based...

You won’t know till your into it, just order replacements anyway. And good luck having a shop make that pipe, the flanges are specific and it’s all mandrel bent… I have a hell of a time getting shops to do anything exhaust related

Be aware the fronts are 2 different part numbers, the rear are the same, so for an entire truck, you would need 3 of one part number and 1 of another. Also, it’s not required to remove the yokes to remove the diff cover.

cheapest? you will want OEM, no one is making them other than OEM as far as I know…they aren’t that expensive

They aren’t “new” brake adapters, there 2 versions A2 truck and A0/A1 truck, that part number is latter.

You don’t compress them, you remove the limiting ropes, attach each lift shock to either top or bottom ball, insert retainer clip, open the hatch to the point it’s standing straight up, insert other end into ball, install clip and your done. helps to have a helper….

Really? wolfer sells knock offs? Say it ain’t so, ….again, only buy from 3 distributors if you want to guarantee authentic parts, HPG, Kascar, MAC motors, take it from someone who spends about $250k a year between the 3 of them.

yes….

The duct is intact and the radio tray brackets are attache, what’s the problem?

There is no need to replace the trans pan gasket, they are reuseable, don’t install a cork or rubber aftermarket gasket, or it will leak, the OEM gasket has anti-overtorque spacer inserts molded into the hard gasket.

Those tips aren’t broke off, they burned up and turned to dust, next up is to make sure your EESS does not have a bad glow plug timer that won’t expire, as it will do the same to the new set as well. The mfr code is Wellman, but the 10mm head tells me China knock offs.

The new company GTA is a joke, they aren’t interested in selling to civilians, not to mention prices are astronomical. This actually isn’t uncommon for Govt contractors though.

Bad halfshaft…

The log book was always checked out with the key to the vehicle from Motorpool. accident card was also present, who to call..etc

You have to at some point start the engine during the bleeding process

That would be me, 2 M1165’s with non-working Gp’s, the plugs were purchased by the owner on eBay, they are 10mm heads and the body is chrome. They all metered from 3.5-4,5 ohm. The plugs Have the part number and Mfg number stamped same as the OEM, but the plug appears to be chromed afterwards...