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I "commuted" in my Deuce a few times. From a rural area into the city, about 50 km (30 miles) one way.
CAN it do it? Yes.
Is it stressful? YES.
First off, you are a slowpoke, no matter how you turn it. You are slower than most commuter (and commercial) traffic, everybody is in a hurry and...
I would pull the tank off the truck. It is easy to do. Disconnect the electrical connection, disconnect fuel supply and return line and vent line, remove two bolts from the tank straps and slide it out!
I would take the fuel sending unit and the in-tank pump out. That gives you a big hole to...
Old gasket:
When you look at the gap between block and head 6 tabs are sticking out. They are designed to let the gasket "vent". Oil can leak from there (it is intended to allow overpressure to vent off instead of blowing the gasket). The fire rings are separate (not that you could see that with...
So, the yellow one started as a naturally aspirated multifuel that was "turboed " at some point. That large turbo is off an LDS465-1A. It is impressive, but the D-turbo (the smaller non whistler) is more effective.
I'd look at the casting forward and below of the data plate for the TD letters...
I wonder if pulling the truck backwards with another vehicle (clutch depressed) would have the same effect. It would turn the wheels, turn the transfer case, turn the PTO and turn the winch drive shaft?
When you look at the PTO output from the front, it turns clockwise to winch in, counterclockwise to winch out.
Do not hammer the winch clutch, do not hammer the shear pin. There is tension on these parts.
Depress the clutch with engine off, and turn the winch driveshaft with a breaker bar...
The main reason for using the stock filter base is to be able to return to stock condition easily.
No reason to not use a commercial base/filter combo instead.
I am curious to know what the Forest Service did on the secondary filter side. Did they perhaps put two spin ons in series to create...
I simply used a heavy duty rubber-covered push-button switch (starter switch) from a tractor supply store, drilled a hole through the cross member in line with the rod and mounted the switch so that the rod will press the push button when in reverse. Has worked flawlessly since 2009! No cover...
So your pedal is firm and has about 3 1/4 in of travel, stopping well above the floor? I'd say that is good and in line with tightly adjusted brakes. Is your complaint that the pedal sits high off the floor to start with?
Have you oiled your air pack lately? A bit of air tool oil through the hex...
Here are some threads that might help:
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?76883-Instruction-manual-for-using-the-CTIS
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?88040-manual-ctis
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?33133-Need-to-disable-M35A3-CTIS
I think the first decision needs to be whether you wish to build a functional CTIS or whether you disconnect and plug it in a manner that lets you verify air pressures conventionally and leave it at that. CTIS can be an expensive proposition to maintain in working order. People here have done both.
Yes, Aaron made a square pod with room for alarm lights. I am just using a standard round gauge pod that clamps to the steering column. It's green so it belongs there.
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