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That 322110 is for 11.00R20 tires. They have one for 12.00R20's, for the same price: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/crr-322460 Not ideal size but may work OK. Guess you should shop around a bit. Here is another option, correct size but valve stem is slightly longer...

Ahh, ehh.... Maybe you bought those three too cheap....??? :-P How much was it that Uncle Sam paid for each of them....?? I mean for each of the winches alone....???:-? G.

10 = 10 inches wide. .00 = 100% aspect ratio. (which means tire radius minus wheel radius = tire width, more or less) R = radial 20 = nominal wheel diameter = 20 inches Correct tube size for 395/85R20 and 15.5/80R20 tires is 13/20 - for radial tires. I know of people having used 14/20 tubes...

No way! You would need bigger ones; something like 13.00R20. Didn't see it listed there. Found this post... G.

(let me get this one, Steve...:-)) Erik: by just pulling the whole carrier assy and putting it back in (all parts and shims nicely marked and clean!) you are 1) not "disturbing" the original ring & pinion adjustment; 2) not changing anything that would affect the bearing's preload. So you will...

Yes, they do....: TM 9-2320-289-34P, Fig. 97, item 8 : seal, plain encased G.

Great deal??:???:: wheels are 160lbs ea., 3-pc lock-ring... and tires most probably made before 2K... G.

1)Short answer: YES! 2)Longer story, to prove that it does: read here... and also this post Of course you will need to determine if it is engine- or transmission oil, coming out of the fording plug hole. We have had reports here where the bolts attaching the transmission to the clutch housing...

The transmission-mounted winch-PTO's are the same for the M817 and the M818. Only, the dump is a so called "dual-output", with the rear accessory drive added, for the hydraulic pump. There should be no problem to swap all parts including the control lever, from one to the other truck. Maybe...

NOOOO!... or I mean Yes, but that exact message should be directed to Drew's wife.... (and to him, of course: no matter where you are - start immediate recovery action, NOW!)...... :patracy: :p:smile: Thanks Patracy, because I had a real productive working day today, with no other...

.... I know its frustrating, Doghead........ when people seem to ignore about every possible rule! ...... I feel YOUR pain...!aua G.

:funny: Not so sure about that... Are there really so many "Rednecks" out there in GA, owning a HMMWV ... and doing rally-things? How comes we don't see them in Durhamtown....?:-P (It almost sounds as if you are a bit envious...... which I would perfectly understand, of course.......... :-))...

Bore and "shaft" -diameters are the same: 3.350" x 2.375", respectively. So yes, basically you can use the same seals, all around, even if the original part numbers differ. Some part numbers here, for "modern" seals from the most common brands: C/R-SKF #23710; Timken #412119 or # 410101; Clark...

Glad you found the REAL problem! Now that we know it..., wait a minute, this is NOT the first time someone on here had exactly the same problem! Which also means, it can (and according to Mr.Murphy - will...) happen again! If I could find that thread, now... G.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?79296-37X12-5X16-5-HUMMER-Wheels-M1008 G.

Yes. Specifically, like a primary- (or both) compensating valve(s) NOT ... compensating! With no air, that is the only way that pressure can be built up, from the MC down to the WC; no matter if single or dual circuits. First, make sure that after pumping the pedal, when fully released, the...

..... NO! It looks good enough to me, for another 30 years of service....!:) G.

Its a WTT ad and should not be in this forum IMHO. G.

Seals are the same for all M35 axles/hubs, except for the M35A3. PM me that link and I may be able to confirm. G.

:ditto: