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as have I...the bolt has always come right off with little effort...

Correct...even during reset, that piece of rubber was discarded

Yes, it is press fit, I have the installer tool, it should not just slide on, or off for that matter. welding is a problem, the cranks are forged and the metal properties will change with the migs heat and un-heat treat the area if not hardened correctly, also probably impossible to do in the...

GEP didn’t Make the 6.2, the 6.5 is the direct replacement, it’s in the form of a “detuned” motor. Why you wouldn’t want a 6.5 im not clear on...later GEP’s are a much much better motor for many reasons. The detuned 6.5 was because the 6.2 was mfg discontinue.

The swich fails often...just replace it

Never had this in 30yrs, you have something else going on...very well the crank end is out of spec from when the key broke and spun, just my .02 cents. Call my shop if you like.

that’s not an ignition pump, it’s called an injection pump...I would not trust anything like that from a local auto store either. also, I would assume anything local is 12v and not 24v, unless you swapped top cover, but you could have a weak solenoid and is causing your issue. If it were me? I...

That’s made to go on first...also, they. I longer use that piece in production, it was only early trucks

They are Chinese knock offs....only use OEM shafts.

Dumping water on the pump was/is a DS4 pump issue, not a DB2 pump issue...it was to cool the PMD, which does not exist on Db2’s. I would check that you fuel filter isn’t clogged and/or you mechanical fuel pump is bad.

Most folks don’t realize just how strong that plastic is on the blade...I challenge anyone to try and break those blades, it’s a b***ch. Your concern is when the fan engages at 220, it can wipe out your water pump. I had one that shook so violently you though the truck was coming apart.

It’s not an ECV...it’s a REV

Have you even bothered to check your injection pump timing? The smoke you speak of is retarded pump timing.

the shaft dictates the correct boot...so without knowing what shaft GVW you have, no idea if it’s the correct boot.

lose the R4 transmission and install a 4L80e with the 242. It’s a common conversion....anyone who knows enough about transmissions and diesel engines knows better than to install an R4...but heck, what do I know.

Just drive it, there is nothing you can do if anything was done to the motor. I just had a truck that had 8 GP’s with 100% of the tips missing...runs perfect, so far.

I’m assuming you know you will need an ECV radiator shroud to mount that turbo radiator correct? along with an ECV snout, frame rail expensions and a new Hood.

its your PS pump that whines, not the gear...full hard left left or right to steering stops will produce noise. whining is introduction of air into the System

there are aftermarket bolt on hard top mounts, no need to replace the A-pillar unless your sticking to OEM.

really? I’ve never installed a set in 30yrs, have removed several sets as they actually caused more issues than they fixed. I have a yard full of out of round tires, but they are this way due to sitting in the desert for 10yrs on an uparmored M1123.