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That's exactly the same type (forgot the brand) they have here at our local tire shop. No more tire irons, or (classic) wedge & sledge hammer = no damage to rims and beads, no sweat...!
They do truck and tractor tires all day long and have had this machine for many years now.
BTW: those...
Original transm. is almost 22" from SAE#3 mounting surface to face of companion flange.
Now the driveshafts, measured C-C betw. U-joints are:
1)TC to F-R axle = 45" collapsed +4", fully extended.
2)TC to front axle = 36"+ 3"ext.
... so using the rear DS looks like an option, if you can move...
:ditto: to all!
To the "bottom of doors" only? ... salt water right?
That is at least 1 foot over the batt's posts, fill/vent plugs, etc. - for hours... !?
Yes, check all battery terminal- and ground connections first...
2nd, if you had a multimeter, check voltage, each batt., between (+)...
Hi, anyone with a truck coming down on I-75 to the Richloam Rally, next weekend??
I have a brand-new - (at least that's what Oddball007 said...) M105 trailer sitting there at Vinny-socom1's place in Ocala and that needs to get to the rally, somehow.... preferably in one piece!:)
Will gladly...
The pure weight of the lever alone doesn't cause any wear at all: the spring loaded detent ball in the shift shaft groove(s) is strong enough to overcome that relatively small force.
What causes wear to the shift fork's groove is the center disk of the synchronizer hub resting against one or...
Holding the lever up with a bungee or strap is a common fix but will quickly wear out the shift fork, too. See pics below...
If you already found bearing-cage pieces that's a clear red flag; time for new ball bearings, at least, for the input shaft. See this recent thread.
G.
For all of you interested in the comparison of a typical MRAP-12-bolt steel-wheel, vs. the HEMTT, FMTV and 5ton combat wheels posted here: this is another sectional drawing I made (to scale), showing its basic dimensions.
Special Thanks! to members Peashooter and Lwarstler, for providing the...
YES, most likely the bearing (#6308, MS rear) was shot, long before this happened...!
Looks like a complete ! transmission overhaul to me... Better/ cheaper if you could find a good take-out in your area.
G.
Very clear, Sir. I was just trying to help you out with the exact gear ratio.... :)
.... so, 850rpm would be for the four 9T-spider gears rotating on the spider tips, reacting to the 16T-side gear, rotating at 477rpm... (1.78:1); to produce 477rpm to the other side gear, in the opposite...
Yes, 850 rpm, with 9.00-20 @ 56 mph. (ratio is 1.78:1)
They do in fact dip into the oil... (carrier lube access holes are positioned slightly below (normal)oil level... but only IF filled to factory-set oil level: inspection plug/hole starting to overflow! (NOT so if level was one knuckle...
If it really is gear oil, you may...:
A) ... remove the inspection cover plate on the bottom of the clutch housing and make sure the (lower)bolts attching the transmission to the clutch housing are still tight and no obvious oil tracks anywhere.
B) ... pull the transmission and then the...
Radials should run paralell (zero toe-in) and caster angle be at least +4º.
Check this post to see what others have done to completely cure the problem.
G.
That's OK, you'll find out that everything is very basic, once you have it all apart. Not much to do wrong.
As for the lube, I've been running mine on 85W90, any good brand. No problem.
Sorry for not checking this thread earlier; I'm in GA right now, guess where.... :grin:
G.
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