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Papabear, THAT IS a ....:funny: G.

If you had a shop press, simply press that inner seal out and measure its O.D., width and also the pinion shaft diameter. It should be a std. size part, so finding the correct seal# in the catalogs should be fairly easy, from there on. Just in case....:here is a whole set, and not overly...

Even at 350 Hp you probably have over 600 lb-ft @ 1600 rpm. That's a LOT of torque! Your Spicer may hold up to that figure - or not - depending its condition... and the driver's, of course! Good luck finding a clutch strong enough, that would fit into that SAE#3 housing. G.

SuperJoe: you can see ALL your subscribed threads; 2nd under "Quick Links". (Although not clear yet how to find one of them in particular...) G.

I think it is Mr. Travis (Mudguppy) who deserves the credit here.... See his nice write-up thread... G.

I tried to respond to your last PM by attaching a little drawing. But for some reason that didn't work so here it goes: 1) ...what you can do as a temporary fix or trial, (just for a short test ride!) to determine if milling/grinding the spring seats will solve the wandering issue or not. (Note...

From the book..... (attached) G.

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OEM canvas soft top: 19.3" x 8.3" Hard top: _________ (anyone??) G.

Good job! Even the counter put back to zero... looks NEW! G.

Agreed! Towards the steering gear it takes a common U-joint and to the column, what's called a plunging tripod CV joint...(= $25) That I don't know Tom... wishing we could meet one day, with our trucks and compare...:-) Just for fun: extracted text portions shown below are from two different...

Yes, here you go... G.

..which is very good! But the root cause...?? You can observe (old)cars wiggling their tail at slow speed, like when pulling to a red light; and then, when starting again. (I have seen that even in the USA....!!) Usually that's a deformed radial tire's carcass, nothing else! So could this be...

Okay....... Not clear what your plan really was - or is? :???: You said this is your first.... and it appeared you came here looking for help. Then got good info and advice, as how to proceed. And then still apply your own method....!? Q: are you just trying to teach others of the many ways...

:ditto: Here are two examples... G.

You looked? ... and didn't see....? http://www.steelsoldiers.com/parts-sale/96702-power-steering-overdrive.html G.

In case you didn't find it already: that handle takes a woodruf key and a small allen hex socket set screw on the opposite side. I made this chart (below) for what I consider the best options for replacement seals... The pic shows both clutch hsg.-to-drum seals; the original one, and the...

Just curious: have you compared the mass (weight) of that Cummins FW, vs. an LDT, modded? I can calculate what the LDT's would be, with the center widened to 10" and machined flat. What if the Cummins's was even lighter? G.

Jim, another usual suspect - er, I mean source... is Vintage Power Wagon. (Expect receiving some China-made parts, though...) If you preferred to purchase the seals and bearings locally, I may be able to assist you with dimensions/ brg. numbers. This excellent write-up has been VERY useful...

I know what you mean... when I tried (years ago...) the cable was either too short or hitting the spare, or both, don't remember details. I know there was a reason I just left it like they all come from factory: routed over crossmember... G.