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Depending how you would define "mis-shifting" here...:)
Sorry to say it but.... it may occur again (two gears engaged at the same time)
I concur with rrrr; suggesting an inspection of your transmission top cover. The problem most likely is a worn or cracked shift- interlock plate, as well as...
I have yet to confirm this, but it seems to me that they went with the original Spicer 3053A transmission, as well as the T136-27 T-case - in there, unchanged.
Why else would there be exact reproduction spare parts available, made in Korea? (like syncros, gears, or even a complete PTO rear...
Same Q. here!?
The spindle may fit a bit tight, no problem - BUT... once seated and tightened, the axle shaft should be able to turn by hand, grabbed by the splines - real smoth, no binding, at any angle of the steering knuckle!
G.
Actually its quite the opposite: you'll have to remove some out of the center disk and then bolt an adapter plate in place.
See my drawing here: it gives you an idea of the real proportions; what needs to be done and how it would look like.
If so and labor doesn't matter that may change the...
Better looks and probably cheaper, too...
A HEMTT wheel fits as is and may cost the same as the adapter plus the wheel mod. And he can always sell the MRAP's and get a few bucks back, there.
G.
Hey, I saw your Q. .... which you then edited! ;-)
... Don't worry, its perfectly accepted here. Just don't dare to do the opposite: putting a Chevy(Ford, Dodge, etc) drivetrain under a Deuce frame...!:whistle:
The only thing we strongly request in cases like your's is painting the whole...
NDT, yes he was..... but just for the very same reason you mentioned in your first post (which I agree 100% with), it is clear that he won't find anything regarding "inframe overhaul" - except maybe, pulling the whole front output section...
My response came AFTER the OP already said he was...
:ditto:
... very true, the last sentence!
Being full with grease also helps to keep the axle shaft thrust washers and bushing inside the spindle, lubricated.
G.
Not exactly...! I did say (seal)retainer, not the seal.
Good that the seal you got was coated...; but even so you could still have oil seeping in between the retainer and axle tube, if it wasn't installed with some kind of sealant.
I know, you later found its dry there... still, something to...
Nice!
I suspect you can only do one color (+ aluminum/silver) at a time...?
Guess you still want to see originals, scanned, for more details!?
All those you made are to be drilled and fixed via screws or rivets, exclusively, so for me at least I would like to see them framed WITH the quarter...
May I add: "...and sometimes just wrong...!" .....??
I'm sure who ever has tried to rebuild his winch "going step x step by the book" can confirm this...!?
(Just wondering if Garwood had approved those instructions?)
Or is it that someone wanted us to use common sense instead, when assembling...
No, except that you could use high-load type ball bearings (BL) everywhere, instead of just inside the gears. (Their cost usually is x2 to x4, compared to std.)
Otherwise put in there what was listed.
Just avoid any other than good known US-made bearings!!
BTW, a shielded (NOT sealed!) bearing...
You can get it out to either the front OR rear side, no problem. Just keep it straight and aligned while pressing- or knocking- out.
Heating the housing (->200F) with a heatgun or torch usually helps.
G.
Checked that picture:
LOADED CG ...................BODY : its all OK, just as he put it. (no ????, of course...)
Only thing I could find: where it says 8A 93; it should say RA 93
G.
Edit: another detail... see attachment. Option 1 is what you will normally find.
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