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Excellent workhorse and YES, full time 4WD! And working very well since it has that (manually lockable) third differential, inside the heavy duty NP203 T-case. No need to remedy anything drivetrain-related, IMHO. Just keep the front wheel bearings well greased if you want them to last...
Well, reason enough for the (clutch)dogs to remain engaged...
So you did actually measure it before assembly but never suspected it was 8mm off...?? just wondering... :???:
G.
:ditto:Yes, that's typically a twisted shift shaft.
Also see this thread, starting at post #4...
... with one possible alternative to the original design, in post #12.
G.
Change to air-shift: you will be surprised how much better your truck will perform in soft sand, with all 3 axles now pulling at equal speed.
Cheaper: yes - while supply lasts... Better keep that -21 for spare parts!
G.
All true; only thing is that it is not the ring gear, in this case...
Those teeth are from the bevel gears inside the differential carrier (knowingly a "weak spot")
G.
That is just home-brewed - typically from left-over pieces laying around.
Mounting bracket & flange; coupler shaft w/ bearing and seal; the correct size yoke; plus shear pin protection - all in one... way too specific to find it "made"!:wink:
G.
Rick, the basics of that system are described here.
Max. allowed cylinder pressure is 2300 psi. The light duty pump is specified for about 20 gpm @ 1500 rpm, at max. 2500 psi.
Yes, it is driven via a short driveshaft, connected to the rear auxilliary drive of the transmission PTO. That output...
I would say, for that kind of dump or a small KB-crane, NO!
Just a few facts/ specs, FYR:
1) The M977 HEMTT crane: the PTO-driven pump delivers 10-12 gpm @3000 psi; w/engine at 1500 rpm. The max. input flow for the valve bank is 15.5 gpm. The relatively large stabilizer jacks are the ones...
:ditto: ... to what Speddmon said.
Looks like gear oil had been accumulating inside the boot, until it finally ripped open. Not a sudden issue, though: judging by the marks left on the tire, it has been (slowly)leaking for days, maybe weeks.
Not enough oil there on the floor, for the diff. to...
That was about time! How can someone owning- and having restored- so many MV's (what we call "seriously OD-infected"!) ... have missed STEELSOLDIERS for so long????:razz:
Welcome aboard, from the other side of the Globe!
G.
Jesse, of course you can give it a try but..........
I did check your measurements: 34.5" and 34.25", respectively, IS correct. It also means that the front door posts and the cab rear wall are parallel to each other.
Still unclear IF after all bodywork the door openings remained square on...
Maybe the E-brake is... if pulses are the same frequency as the rear drive shaft turning? Adjusted too tight? ... and the drum not perfectly even or round ?
You said you serviced the E-brake. Have you tried to apply it to a more or lesser extent, while rolling, and how it influences the noise...
Doors are all pretty much the same size, but the door openings do vary a lot!
Slightly bending the hinges in a press is possible since they are soft material. I have done that more than once and IMHO it is the most elegant solution.
BUT... that method - or shimming - won't help if for example...
think again... because it won't work well using the stock roller bearings, no matter how "lightly" you lube them... (been there, done that...!)
You need a hub and adapt relative small ball-bearings, and mount it on a custom spindle - not that difficult.
For reference, see my M35...
YES, no problem with that.
Very valid question!
Considering that the (outer) seal design in itself is problematic... And that little piece of cork is there to prevent mayor leakage.... (expect not much better than that...)
... I think that the designers have disregarded that possible little...
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