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Oh man, what have I done; guess I better delete that post ... (now that YOU know)...? :-) G.

Agreed on that! Also regarding cost: a new pump (source: "buy it now"...) @ $150; adapter (TNJMurray) @ $48; gear (TNJMurray) @ $90 = $288. Say $300 if we added nut & washer.... not that bad for being specific parts, I guess?? (Hope they don't rise their prices now if they see this...

Good point for you! Although, not sure if adding such had been considered by some of the "kit" manufacturers, until now...:-) G.

You (and others also) seem to forget that the stock steering box has a relatively high ratio and combined with the very short pitman arm it still will take a LOT of wheel turning, no matter how much "ram-assist"you got. (unless that stock pitman arm was replaced with a much longer one...?)...

Sorry, not... All I have is some front face photos, gathered from this site. You or anyone having a "tire-less" 5ton 20x10in 2pc (bolt-together) wheel laying around and wanting to collaborate: please take some measurements, maybe shoot some detail pics, too and fill-in the unknown dims in the...

Basic wheel dimensions, 5ton combat wheel vs. HEMTT wheel vs. FMTV wheel... vs. MRAP (12bolt, steel) G.

A good (temporary) fix for small holes; quick and effective: a small piece of inner tube, held in place with a hose clamp. On a side note: I'm not sure if I would use plastic (polyamide) brake tubing (like this) all the way, starting right at the air compressor's output down to the...

Maybe this helps.... G.

:ditto: Yet another reason to do the PS-conversion...!:wink: G.

You mean pulling that rusty brake drum off the (rusty)shaft end(?):wink: Now, if I read well your signature...that shouldn't be a problem at all; so I was waiting for your "found the way!" post... :p It is not a press fit, just rust that keeps it stuck on. Here some old tricks (in case it...

Sorry, never intended as "correction"..... I know you know, but the newbies.......!? :) Actually in this case, re-using the old gasket (dry after degrease) and applying sealer to both faces is a good procedure. Although, I really don't like paper gaskets at all and try to eliminate them...

The way you put it maybe a bit confusing.... Just to clarify: this is one of the places where a gasket acts as shim also, in this case to adjust (and ensure minimum)axial play of the wormshaft assy. If the gasket was eliminated by using sealer only the bearings may bind and self destruct...

LOL... very true; for everyone who spent years in and around these fine trucks! I was waiting for someone to comment just that....:) G.

Certainly good advice, Ron! There is a reason for that safety latch to exist... (to secure the clutch lever in the disengaged position) G.

It's all there...... TM 9-2320-361-34, Section 10-4: Differential Carrier Repair G.

It is the same winch and it really doesn't make a difference... See this post here. I have found early ones with a round knob on the drum lock, angular ball bearings (#7309) for the wormshaft, and/or a drum that is open to-wards the clutch housing. Also some of the drums are drilled through...

I'm surprised they still make the Douglas connectors as well as the corresponding switches ...:o I always thought they were considered obsolete since the early 70's, after all trucks were coming with the Packard's. G.

One way I have seen this happen was max power, high rpm acceleration with engine still cold. G.

Regardless of what is in the tank the intank pump should provide way more flow than what the engine ever needs; always at a min. pressure of at least 5psi, even with the gas pedal to the floor. This can be checked with a pressure gauge tee-ed in at the booster pump inlet port. G.

Worm gear bearings: 2x #6309 (100x45x25mm), one at each end. G.